[quote=“2stimpy”]looks good, doe everything work fine now?
Did you see improvements at every step you made?
I also bought the e3d hotend, but at the same time I want to upgrade to an aluminium direct drive extruder.[/quote]
The biggest improvement came with the z-motor mounts. Al the other upgrades just improved the prints with only small amounts. There is 1 problem that remains unsolved and that is visible x/y wobble. The big advantage with the E3D hotend is the changeable nozzles.
What do you mean with an alu direct drive extruder? Something like the bulldog XL extruder?
I also noticed the biggest improvement with the Z- motor mounts.
Indeed i like the Buldog, and i am trying to build this myself.
I am going to use a reducer gearbox.
I also notice the x/y vibration.
I think this is mostly produced by the stepper motors.
My conclusion is that each step produces a little vibration, and that becomes visible in the print.
It does not bother me that much though.
I am switching to a direct drive to try and eliminate the nose the gears make on retraction.
The E3D is to be sure i can print ABS without problems of the standard hotend getting sloppy.
Even though i did not print abs yet i noticed that the nozzle already loosened up a bit.
I tried printing ABS for the first time yesterday, the hotend deals good with it but it was a complete failure. The print came loose quite early. It was just a first test, I’ll try again later when I have some kapton. I also don’t know if 60 degrees on the bed is sufficient for ABS but I can’t get any higher then that. Reaching this temperature already takes 13 minutes…
Btw: the only downside so far on the E3D is the very noise fan that comes with the kit. I’ll probably change it soon to a more quiet one. It bothers my allot since the printer was so quiet before.
I was afraid the fan would would make noise, i already hate the fan in the housing, that is why i put electronics in the housing so that the fan only runs at a certain temperature.
I hope that here is a solution so the fan makes less noise.
[quote=“2stimpy”]I was afraid the fan would would make noise, i already hate the fan in the housing, that is why i put electronics in the housing so that the fan only runs at a certain temperature.
I hope that here is a solution so the fan makes less noise.[/quote]
About the fan in the housing, I bought one from conrad stating “super silent fan” and indeed, I can’t hear it at all. It’s always on and I can’t hear a thing. So very happy about that one. That’s why the difference is so big with the one from E3D. The next time I have to order some electronic parts I’ll look out for a silent 20 x 20 fan too
Today I tried something different. Later this month my girlfriend and I are 3 years together and I wanted to make something special. I drawed something in Photoshop, then imported the image to inventor and drew over the lines to create a 3D model. I had the idea to write something in the base-plate but I wanted to be sure that the letters would be clearly visible. Therefore I started printing the baseplate in white PLA, paused the print after 4 layers and then continued in red PLA. This is the result (I’m very happy about the way it turned out):
I’m currently installing a mosfet controller for a second power supply:
I think I’m almost there to fit everything together, I just want to ask a few questions before blowing anything up:
*First of all, I found 3 power supply’s laying around and I’m wondering of any of these 3 is good enough to make this setup work:
First one is a power supply of a pc:
12v 32A = 380 watt
second and third one is a power supply of an old laptop:
20v 6A = 120 watt
and
19v 4A = 76 watt (which will be not enough a assume)
will any of these 3 perform as well as the power supply’s from reichelt that everybody is talking about?
*Second question is the wiring, I drew in paint what I understand of how this mosfet has to be wired (I can be completely wrong, but this is what I understand with my basic knowledge about these things):
So on the control-board both left pins are positive and both right pins are negative, correct? Weird thing is, on the signal input is no + or - written (at least weird for me, probably this is logic for someone who understands :-))
*Final question is already stated above, even after magu’s explanation I’m not 100% sure about which jumper to connect: normal or inverted
[quote=“KLucky13”]First one is a power supply of a pc:
12v 32A = 380 watt
second and third one is a power supply of an old laptop:
20v 6A = 120 watt
and
19v 4A = 76 watt (which will be not enough a assume)
will any of these 3 perform as well as the power supply’s from reichelt that everybody is talking about?
[/quote]
The only one that will perform reasonable is the 20V / 6A PS.
That gives you approx. 62W on the heated bed vs 35W with the original PS.
The 19V PS will give you ~56W.
The 12V PS will result in much lower power on the bed, so you’ll end up with a very long heat-up time and lower end temp.
I first used a 19.5V notebook PS. That made the bed heat up much faster than with the original 15V PS.
However, after fitting a glas plate it took again longer the heat up, so now I’m using a 24V / 90W PS (that’s just about on it’s limit, as the bed takes approx 89W at 24V).
For the power connections that’s correct.
Depending on the control input layout of that board it’s very well possible that the terminals can be connected in either way. E.g. if the board uses a bridge rectifier or an optocoppler with anti-parallel diodes.
However, without seeing the schematic of the board it’s hard to tell.
Thanks for the reply. Then I’ll have to think about buying the power supply from reichelt. About the connection of the signal (coming from the print board of the printer) I’ve seen so many people with an additional power supply, so somebody has to know this I assume.
Then it’s still a mistery what I have to do with the normal/inverted jumper thing.
Btw is it necessary to connect both left pins and both right pins? Since they are only used as a signal for the MOSFET?
[quote=“KLucky13”]Thanks for the reply. Then I’ll have to think about buying the power supply from reichelt. About the connection of the signal (coming from the print board of the printer) I’ve seen so many people with an additional power supply, so somebody has to know this I assume.
Then it’s still a mistery what I have to do with the normal/inverted jumper thing.
Btw is it necessary to connect both left pins and both right pins? Since they are only used as a signal for the MOSFET?[/quote]
You can always start with the 20V PS. That will give you a much quicker heat-up time as with the original 15V PS. You can decide later if that’s sufficiant for you or not.
As for the power connections to the extension board: Yes, it’s absolutely essential that both the plus lead and the ground are connected to the board, as the MOSFET switches the plus via the heat bed to the ground terminal.
I’m using my self built extension board, and there the terminals of the control input (heater output of the controller board) need to be connected in the right way.
Probably your extension board is more sophisticated and can handle either way
I think Kenny’s question was more about whether he has to connect only two pins (one plus, one GND) or all four of them, and since the power transfer is negligible, I’d say the answer is “one pin each is enough”.
Ok thanks for the respons. The only thing left to find out is which jumper to connect
And hopefully (and I think so) the + and - on the signal input won’t matter to much since it’s not indicated
OK, I understand now what was meant. Of course, the signal input only requires on plus and one gnd, as there’s only a very small current pulled from that connector.
I upgraded to an ultimaker 2 and I’m selling this printer. What would be a good price considering all the upgrades on it?
Upgrades:
GT2 belts and pulleys
Z-motor mounts
Extra z-motor
Flexibele z-axes couplings
Trapezium z-axes
Standalone unit
Printboard case
X-motor reinforcement
Filament guide
Anti-vibration feet
Glass plate
LED-light module
Extruder gear cover
E3D v5 full metal extruder
(0,25;0,40;0,60mm)
Print cooler nozzle for the E3D
Go-pro mount
Improved Z-calibration
Mosfet controller with second power supply
