@ 2stimpy,
Hi,
I seem to remember a thread where someone mentioned to use hot water to clean the mirror after the printing process to remove the printed part.
Have not tried it myself, but you might want to give it a go…
Good luck,
BigDee
The unexposed glue easily removes with Hot, or even cold water.
The area with the solved abs over it have to be scratched off because it stick damn good.
@ tjozsa, i’ll upload this this evening.
It isn’t a finished product but if you use solid edge i have the part file for it.
[quote=“2stimpy”]The unexposed glue easily removes with Hot, or even cold water.
The area with the solved abs over it have to be scratched off because it stick damn good.
@ tjozsa, i’ll upload this this evening.
It isn’t a finished product but if you use solid edge i have the part file for it.[/quote]
I’m happy with whatever you can share. I’m looking for a direct drive extruder for my k8200 since a couple of days, and there aren’t too much that could be easily fitted. So whatever you can share I will be very grateful. 
Here are the files.
These are the latest files, these exact files are the ones i used to make the aluminium part from.
No idea if this will work if its printed.
Especially the bearing holder could be to weak in plastic.
Btw, at what temperature do you extrude PLA with your E3D?
I did not print much but it was set at 190, like standard.
I am getting these thickened edges, maybe the filament temp is a bit to high.
Ok, I also still print at 190 degrees with PLA. Yesterday my roll of kapton arrived so I start experimenting with ABS today. I’m still waiting for the mosfet so for now the bed will be 60 degrees.
A question: Do you print with the fan completely off to prevent warping?
[quote=“2stimpy”]Here are the files.
These are the latest files, these exact files are the ones i used to make the aluminium part from.
No idea if this will work if its printed.
Especially the bearing holder could be to weak in plastic.[/quote]
Hi,
Thanks for putting this up. It helps. Though I will need to remix this as I only have NEMA17 steppers at hand and they don’t fit the whole on the extruder body. My I ask what 3d app are you using? I could start from scratch based on what I see but if you don’t mind exposing your 3d model, could you also upload it or send it to me directly?
Thanks,
Regards,
Tamas
I am using solid edge, i can mail you the par file.
I really recomand the gearbox. i have the steps set at 500.
Without the box i would be 100.
Please email me the par files. I will try to use the gearbox, but not sure how it will work out.
My address is tjozsa[at]gmail[dot]com.
Thanks in advance, and
Best Regards,
Tamas
Klucky13, i havent even mounted the fan yet.
So indeed i am printing with no fan, works great.
On this product even the top bridges printed without support.
Have to clean it up, but came out perfect for me.
This was a 7 hr print job.
I am printing at low speed, 30 mm/sec
tjozsa, i will mail you the files today.
I see that a lot of people get a mirror on the heated bed.
On which temperature do you set the bedtemperature when a mirror is applied?
Greetings
[quote=“jorimon”]I see that a lot of people get a mirror on the heated bed.
On which temperature do you set the bedtemperature when a mirror is applied?
Greetings[/quote]
I use the same settings, the heated will need a longer time to heat up since the mirror has to heat up also. I don’t think the temperature will be allot different at the surface (with or without mirror)
I also use the same setting.
Yesterday i printed black ABS with heatbed set to 100C, but when u measured on the brim with a infrared temp gauge i measured 85C.
My method of uhu glue with solved ABS on top of that sticks like crazy, only thing is that it is a hell of a job to clean the mirror again.
My extruder motor get 35C and even hotter when i close the door in the housing.
I have the voltage set to 0,6 volt on that stepper driver.
I think i’ll try and lower that a little, hoping it doesn’t skip steps.
Hey 2stimpy, since the forum does not have PM I’ll have to ask you here. I bought a finished MOSFET controller on the internet. It has power input and output (to the bed I assume). How exactly did you wire all this? Did you change the ribbon cable to the bed to thicker cables or does it work fine this way?
I’m also native Dutch speaking, PM would be nice to have on this forum
[quote=“KLucky13”]Hey 2stimpy, since the forum does not have PM I’ll have to ask you here. I bought a finished MOSFET controller on the internet. It has power input and output (to the bed I assume). How exactly did you wire all this? Did you change the ribbon cable to the bed to thicker cables or does it work fine this way?
I’m also native Dutch speaking, PM would be nice to have on this forum :-)[/quote]
I am sorry that i did not read your message before. i don’t know how i missed is while i take a look here every day.
I assume you have your heatbed working by now?
My new mk3 heatbed arrived a while ago and the new 24v 600 w psu had been here also for a while.
This weekend i took the time to install the heatbed together with the printed cable chain and thicker wires.
It took a while before i had the 16 chain links printed. First i printed them in pla, sadly something didn’t go well because they crack when i try to snap them together. They did look good though.
So printed them again in abs.
I have tried to heat the bed and already reached 112 degrees(without the cover mounted yet).
After 2,5 minutes i reached 50c didn’t time the 112c time. This was while hooked up to the standard 24 volt.
Haven’t printed anything yet but i think it will do fine.
I am planning on making a cable cain for the X movement also.
I have also put the 4 mounting screws back without the springs.
The construction is more stable this way. It is a little more work to adjust the bed to be level but with this alu heatbed it is much easier than the original one. Once the bed is level, i don’t have to fiddle with it anymore.
I just wired the bed to the 12 side, and man the thing heats up fast now.
Until the 70 degree mark it counts up like seconds, higher up it is upping a little slower but within a few minutes it reaches 100c.
Another problem that i have to fix now is the already thicker wires that are getting hot. So i have to use even thicker wires.
But this upgrade is defenatly wort the bucks, i hate to wait and now i don’t have to anymore.
Just installed thicker wires, and i am currently printing.
Coming from 26c it hit the 50c in 36 seconds. 100c was reached at 2 minutes and 17 seconds.
He started printing after 2 and a half minute.
Man that thing heats fast now.
I am really happy with the results.
The heating of the hotend to 250c and heatbed to 100c can be done at the same time and they are almost at the same time at the target temperature.
last mod for now.
Final product.
So what have i done.
Made billet z-motor holder.
Added coupler.
Changed to trapez z-axle.
Added second z-motor an axle.
Added extra power supply for heatbed with extra switch.
Changed extruder for homebuild alu direct drive extruder.
Changed hotend to E3D.
Changed heatbed to alu MK3 heatbed.
Changed extra power supply to 600w for extreme fast heating on heatbed.
Added thicker wires for heatbed and fed them trough cable chains.
Added lower bearing just above the coupler on Z-axis.
Fitted a plexiglass cover.
I think its time to stop modding now.
Thanks for all the help an thanks for watching.