The GT2 belt upgrade did dive me better results although it is minor.
The printer does seem to run smoother, so that is a plus.
Now i am trying to figure out which design would be best to use for a direct drive extruder with 1:5 gear box.
I want to make it out of aluminium because i like that extra sturdiness.
I am waiting for my connectors to arrive before i can install the new alu direct drive unit.
Hoping i have done my homework correct and that would mean that there won’t be to much difference in the amount material extruded with this setup.
I use a 5:1 gearbox.
Personally i think it looks good, lets hope it also works good.
I have had to disassemble the standard extruder for a few times now because of a jam.
That is no fun and you cant really fix it without damaging the teflon barrel.
I keep posting pictures because there must be someone who likes it.
I am not directly expecting better print quality but do hope this will be more user friendly and cope better with high temperatures.
I like the fact that this way you are able to see the filament all the way to the point where it enters the hot-end. I also have been wondering if taking away the gears and putting the “hobbed bolt” directly on the extruder-motor would give any improvement. But do the gears give some kind of a lower ratio to the hobbed bolt, which make it move more precise? I really have no clue, just asking…
edit: I did not read the part about the gearbox. Is that gearbox positioned in that small area between the bolt en the motor? Do you have any pictures of that?
I’m curious about any results with this setup, it looks simple, much better then the original setup…
The gearbox is round and because the motor is square i thought id keep the square and fit the gearbox the milled aluminium piece.
This evening i will try to mount and test the setup.
I am also curious about the results, and maybe this will solve a retraction problem like yours on the tower.
It can be done without the gearbox but if i am correct the ratio on the standard gears from velleman is also 1:5.
That is why i used the gearbox to keep that precision, and the torque will be better.
[quote=“2stimpy”]The gearbox is round and because the motor is square i thought id keep the square and fit the gearbox the milled aluminium piece.
This evening i will try to mount and test the setup.
I am also curious about the results, and maybe this will solve a retraction problem like yours on the tower.
It can be done without the gearbox but if i am correct the ratio on the standard gears from velleman is also 1:5.
That is why i used the gearbox to keep that precision, and the torque will be better.
As soon as i have results, ill post it here.[/quote]
That retraction issue would already be better anyway because the standard hobbed bolt is straight, just pushing on a small area of the filament. And with a gear like this:
Half of the filament is “surrounded”, so it must grip much better imo
I have the extruder working but i am struggling to get it calibrated.
I was @ 600 steps, now i am @ 500 steps.
Bedtime now, tomorrow i will try a print and see what happens.
Today i finished my first print with ABS(White).
A few things that i noticed.
Created the file with Cura with correct temp settings.
But when the bed temp of 60 degrees is reached, the temp settings jump to that of the pla.
Have to look in to that.
I also planned on not using the cooling fan, but it did come on.
I noticed it because heater temp dropped rapidly, this is also strange i think.
I solved some ABS, and brushed that on the mirror i use.
Bottom layer adhered good, but after a few layers the(small) print came up on the corners.
Have to find a better sticking solution.
I noticed the Z banding again, maybe ABS is more critical for getting good results.
All in all i have enough things to look in to before i will be satisfied.
Today i finished my first print with ABS(White).
A few things that i noticed.
Created the file with Cura with correct temp settings.
But when the bed temp of 60 degrees is reached, the temp settings jump to that of the pla.
Have to look in to that.
I also planned on not using the cooling fan, but it did come on.
I noticed it because heater temp dropped rapidly, this is also strange i think.
I solved some ABS, and brushed that on the mirror i use.
Bottom layer adhered good, but after a few layers the(small) print came up on the corners.
Have to find a better sticking solution.
I noticed the Z banding again, maybe ABS is more critical for getting good results.
All in all i have enough things to look in to before i will be satisfied.[/quote]
Why would you only go up to 60 degrees bed temp? I see you have a second power supply, can’t you reach 100 degrees? That would already help with warping no?
I’m also planning to start printing with ABS, I ordered a MOSFET for a second power supply and a roll of kapton. Im wondering if a case is really necessary, I’ll find out quick enough
The real reason i built a case around the printer was agains collecting dust while the printer is not in use.
Also an ABS there is a little smell, i planned on putting a filter on but that is not necessary.
Later i read that it could help with printing ABS so the ambient temp gets higher.
just looked at the print, it still comes loose from the blasted glass with solved ABS in it.
A layer of kapton on your mirror does wonders for ABS.
Don’t think however you will be able to keep it stick to the sandblasted mirror.
Ordered me some kapton sheets @ EckerTech Inc. (CAN) and had them mailed to Europe.
Just took a few days to get them. Applied them to my ‘standard’ mirror and was ready to go.
PLA and ABS sticked very well here with Kapton on glass. In the monent I do not print ABS, because my bed heating took too long to heat up for this, will start again after changing this. So I save the (exepensive) Kapton and use cheap hairspray instead, sticks very good.
The Kapton came on a roll with a width smaller than the printing area so I had to apply two stripes without any bubbles to cover all of the glass plate, a work that I really, really hated.
Finally this trick did it for me:
I sprayed a simple window cleaner ( methylated spirit/water) on the glass, then applied the first stripe of Kapton. It can then be moved easily in the correct position and smoothed out with a plastic card.
Then did the same with the second stripe, pushing it seamless to the first stripe and again stroking out all air bubbles and cleaner.
The DO NOT TOUCH, I used to let it dry over night, the next day the plate was ready to use.
I share the concerns of BigDee that the tape perhaps could not stick on your blasted surface. Is it rough on both sides? If not and problems occur, you could try to turn it around and print on the plain side.
I have a few extra mirrors as spare, and maybe i’ll order even more from ikea.
The kapton is on its way.
In the meantime i am experimenting with what i have.
Just finished a print that went really successful.
For pla i use uhu stick glue, that sticks so well that it is a pain to remove the print from the mirror.
For abs this alone does not work because glue gets to hot.
Today i put solved abs on top of the applied glue. Now the print sticks really well and is also hard to remove.
Gives me a perfect print.
