But it didn’t start out too well. Even though I read the assembly instruction carefully I managed to mount the Z coupler wrong so first prints had the ugly Z wobble thing. Well that was easy to fix once I found tips about it here. But I also had problems with circular shapes becoming slightly oval, and at some occasion X axis shifts during prints. After a few tries fiddling with belt tension (it was too hard at first) and making really sure that rods were parallel I finally discovered that two of the metal rods were a tiiiiny bit sticky, like having aged oil on them. So I cleaned with alcohol and applied a little oil to them and voilá, prints suddenly became perfectly symmetrical and no level shifts. Also I learned how important a proper head-to-bed distance is. The “two-folded paper measurement” is way too sloppy. After adjusting bed distance to 0,2mm with help of proper feeler gauge I got perfect first layer and a nice attachment to the bed.
I also decided to invest in Simplify3D and do not regret that. It took a while to find the proper extrusion settings but oh my how nice prints are now. I’m now mostly printing at max speed 120 mm/s, 0,2mm layer height and prints come out just perfectly. When I need the very best prints I print at half the speed and 0,1mm layer and prints are just stunning (and slow).
So far I’ve only printed PLA, but later this week I’ll try Taulman Bridge Nylon for a project where I need more strength (parts for a rather big dome garden house). Can’t wait to see the result!
Thank you Velleman for offering this amazing printer at a good price. <3
I just assambled my Vertex and I have to say that I am very happy with it. Everythink worked perfect except the vent on the bottom which cause very lound noice. I would need to replace it.
The only problem was removing the printed object from Buildtak. Do you think I need to move away the building board from noozle? I used a Stanley knife which was very close to broken it. Is this normal?
[quote=“Jurij”]The only problem was removing the printed object from Buildtak. Do you think I need to move away the building board from noozle? I used a Stanley knife which was very close to broken it. Is this normal?[/quote]Yes it is. It’s one of the setbacks of the Buildtak solution and it’s even worse with ABS.
To minimize this you can increase the distance between nozzle and bed from a fraction of a mm. When the filament is less squeezed on the bed it sticks less.
[quote=“raby”][quote=“Jurij”]The only problem was removing the printed object from Buildtak. Do you think I need to move away the building board from noozle? I used a Stanley knife which was very close to broken it. Is this normal?[/quote]Yes it is. It’s one of the setbacks of the Buildtak solution and it’s even worse with ABS.
To minimize this you can increase the distance between nozzle and bed from a fraction of a mm. When the filament is less squeezed on the bed it sticks less.[/quote]And to add to those words of wisdom, you will probably find you have to keep changing the nozzle distance as your BuildTak ‘ages’. I’ve worn out one sheet already, and towards the end I had to have the nozzles really close to ensure stuff would stick on long prints.
yeah i have orderd my vertex from store now so will have it in a day or so gona be a Amazing new build just wish it was a bit more scilent tho so i coulde do longer and bigger prints seems to make a bit of noice i bin looking in to microsteeping and so but nothing seems to make the servos make any less noice sp prob only going to do short prints less then 8h prints on it buts def like the new look and quality of the prints def seems a lot nicer any one made any jointed prints or complex prints that couldent be done on the k8200