I am using white PLA with white HIP support at temperatures of 190°C and 225°C respectively, with a layer height of 0.2mm.
I have printed larger objects with no such issues, but this has happened twice with this one (at different layers each time), so I am a little puzzled.
One thing I did notice was that the HIP on the underside of the model was slightly burned, which would indicate it was under heat for longer than it should have been.
It’s called layer shifting. Dozens of posts on here about how to go about fixing it.
Basically you have some resistance to your head movement along a certain direction. Either your rods are not parallel or your belts are too tight. The wiki has detailed explanations.
[quote=“biscuitlad”]It’s called layer shifting. Dozens of posts on here about how to go about fixing it.
Basically you have some resistance to your head movement along a certain direction. Either your rods are not parallel or your belts are too tight. The wiki has detailed explanations.[/quote]
Thank you for the information. I did try searching for it quickly before posting, but I didn’t have much time. I’ll have a browse now I know what it’s called.
There is a little resistance moving the head left, but I can’t seen to work out how to fix it, and it hadn’t caused any problems since. If that is the cause, then why would it cause the layers to be offset along the Y axis too?
[quote=“SlowFoot”]
It’s ok
The bottom of a print should have the same surface structure an the plate you are printing on. On Build Tak it should be even and smooth but it will not get very shiny. It looks like your first layer did not stick to the build surface very well. There is a a long list of possible causes but unclean build surface and faulty calibration of the nozzle hight are the most common.
The side of a print towards the back of the Vertex usually gets less cooling… Try to rotate the object so the most sensitive parts are to the front.[/quote]
Thanks for the advice SlowFoot. I have the printheads perhaps a little lower than I should as it reduces the number of prints that don’t actually stick on the first layer, but I don’t see why that would cause it to lift up later down the line. I guess this is what happens when you don’t have a heated bed. They should really try to make one that works with the second pair of 12V connectors on the power supply.
I have tried various rotations for a few different objects and it there just doesn’t seem to be a way of making it adhere. The HIP almost always comes up. Since it’s a support material, this doesn’t matter as long as it’s not what’s causing the [color=#0000FF]HIP to oxidise and turn black[/color] (it gets stuck to the models and sometimes interferes with the build quality). I should probably create a separate thread on that.
[quote=“SlowFoot”]There is a link to a video in another thread viewtopic.php?f=62&t=15031&start=15#p69958
They suggest you avoid printing with the largest side of the object facing down. Apart from less risk of warping you will get shorter layer times so the support filament will not heat up as much. Have you tried printing with a brim, the support sticks better to the print surface with a brim.[/quote]
Thank you for linking me that. It was very useful. I’ll try out some of those tips and perhaps try to do things in a slightly more counterintuitive way. Cheers!
