As newby I tried to print on the glass bed (reverse of buildtak) but after 3 layers the print lost from the glass.
I know stupid me.
My idea was to sandblast the glass surface and see if there is more adheration from the PLA
as the surface become more rough. I have the tools for that as I already engraved
logo’s and or names on bottles, glasses, and other materials.
Someone already tried or other ideas as I dislike to change now and then the Buildtak,
a heated bad is the last option.
[quote=“blokart”]As newby I tried to print on the glass bed (reverse of buildtak) but after 3 layers the print lost from the glass.
I know stupid me.
My idea was to sandblast the glass surface and see if there is more adheration from the PLA
as the surface become more rough. I have the tools for that as I already engraved
logo’s and or names on bottles, glasses, and other materials.
Someone already tried or other ideas as I dislike to change now and then the Buildtak,
a heated bad is the last option.[/quote]
Hello Blokart,
I’m using at the moment “Blue Painter Tape 3M Scotch 2090”. It works like a charm. PLA gets really smooth bottom surface and 12 Euro for 50 meters ( now after one month using rest is 49 meter). I saw also one video on youtube someone using same tape for ABS printing (without heatbed) but before he uses sandingpaper (60 grit).
Regards
Niyazi
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_TmWzsvtYRA
Many thanks for the response Niyazi
I will try the tape.
One day I will sandblast a recycled glass as I won’t ruine the
original tempered one.
If you are printing with PLA i recommend buying a cheap PVP based glue stick and applying it to the (cold) glass. I personally have had great results with this, also it’s easier to reapply than blue-tape, you can just add a bit more glue between prints and then say every 10th print or so you just wash the glass with soap and reapply a new layer, done!
I tried this weekend with the painterstape from Pattex 30mm (no 50mm, 3M available at Sunday) and it gives a good (cheap) result for PLA,
I did not applied the sanding part, maybe needed for ABS, will try it next week when the ABS is coming in.
@ ingmarolsson
It is not difficult to apply a new piece of painter tape when damaged
[quote=“blokart”]I tried this weekend with the painterstape from Pattex 30mm (no 50mm, 3M available at Sunday) and it gives a good (cheap) result for PLA,
I did not applied the sanding part, maybe needed for ABS, will try it next week when the ABS is coming in.
@ ingmarolsson
It is not difficult to apply a new piece of painter tape when damaged[/quote]
I agree completely that it is not difficult, I just think it’s a tiny bit more hassle getting the tape off the print as well as getting the new tape aligned/not overlapping existing tape. IMHO glue stick > blue tape > build tak (cause of price).
I agree, glue stick is incredibly simple. On the other hand, you tend to use up quite a lot of gluestick so I don’t know if the price is actually lower than blue painters tape. But I am too lazy to take off the glass plate to change the tape (in any case I am using a heated aluminum bed with wood glue now; that is much better than glue stick).
Here’s my two cent.
For unheated bed: PVP (Polyvinylpyrrolidone) based glue stick f.ex. UHU Stick and 3M Scotch purple glue stick. I use Power Pritt Stick “link”, it seems to work better/longer than other PVP based glue sticks.
I put one or two thin layers down on to the glass, it’s usually good for about 5-10 print before I have to wash it of with water and renew it.
I have used the same gluestick for a couple of months. Here in Denmark it costs about 2.50 euro for a stick.
As a side note. When the Buildtak starts to lose its effect you can use the PVP based glue stick to renew the effect of the Buildtak, only need one layer of glue then.
For heated bed: Now, this I have used on my heated Prusa i3 printer for the last year or so. Haven’t found anything that beats it 
… What is it, you ask? Well, it’s a mixture of sugar, water and… spit. I know, I know, it’s weird and probably disgusting to some 
, but my oh my it works.
Procedure:
Stir some water and sugar together, put it in a microwave, give it a minute or so. Take it out and stir. If it looks like thin honey it’s perfect. Is it too thin, add some sugar. Too thick, add some water.
Now, put a small amount on the center of the buildplate and spit on it ( a “small dribble from underneath the tongue” size will do. Thanks biscuitlad ), rub it out on the buildplate to form a even thin layer. Trust me, the spit makes a difference.
Now, heat up the bed as you would normal do and start printing.
It will stick like nothing else and be very hard to remove, until you cool down the plate, by then it will usually fall of by itself. one sugar-water-spit treat will usually last for many prints.
Oh come, come, let’s not be modest! Just how much spit is required?
Are we talking about an enormous gob of spit, raked up from the back of the throat, or just a small dribble from underneath the tongue?
It’s important we approach this in a scientific manner!
[quote=“biscuitlad”]It’s important we approach this in a scientific manner![/quote]Yep and we’ll have the first Eco-friendly sticky build plate
Hehe, I guess a “small dribble from underneath the tongue” size will do . you know, enough to spread the goo all around the buildplate.
But then again, if your glands are producing enormous amount of spit, then hold a bit back on the salivae
[quote=“raby”][quote=“biscuitlad”]It’s important we approach this in a scientific manner![/quote]Yep and we’ll have the first Eco-friendly sticky build plate ;)[/quote]Perhaps we can just chew a sweet and drool over the printer bed occasionally?
Hehe, maybe.