Nice construction and good working within 3 days.
BUT it could be done easy in 1 or 2 days if the manual would be a lot better. Most important is a better construction method. Some screws are tensioned to late or parts placed much to late. Resolving in detaching parts and place again after. But also the measures dont fit precisely while they are given very precisely.
The manual is made like a non-engineer has made it. But also the construction has parts that are very good and very bad. Like very different students have made it.
The wiring should be better. No very small wires for tinning, but just click connections (where these wires are made for!).The construction is very easy to make it much better and easier with a bit of time and almost no extra pricing.
Further, the real thinking is in the software. Thank god it is freeware! And the little PLC (without controller?) with motorcontrollers and a few I/O’s. The whole contruction is actually not very difficult with the free software.
Tip for beginners: first run a few programs dry. Then the last problems will come out itself without damage. In the first run, my nozzle came lose! phew, no damage. probaly by temperature difference.
And last but not least: the bolt for calbrating the Y-axis is on a very wrong place! Who did not thougt about this? And with a 5mm bolt? Very easy to make something very easy to very (annoying) difficult. Also place a simple isolating plate behind the electric! Why electric a few mm from Aluminium? Aluminium makes a shortcut very easy and the box for over the electro doesn’t solve this.
But if everything in the construction is better (software is the next step, because that works very good already!) I think this beginning brainstorm product baby can be a winner! Succes!
Thank you for your suggestions. A lot of effort was put into the manual, showing each step with a picture and extensive instructions. Make sure the nozzle is tightly secure to prevent leaking and of course, it falling off. Be careful not to burn yourself, 190° is very dangerous.
My suggestion is less pictures in the manual. screwing a bolt is not difficult and can be clear in 1 picture in stead of 4 pictures (really to much pictures in the manual and to much focused; a small part looks like a very big part).
And 190 degrees is not much for me. I have experience with acethyleen, 3000 degrees for welding.
And it would be very good to make an attachement with the manual with more facts of the filament. ABS is very different of PLA and its hard to find the configurations therefore. Maybe good to insert a ABS test in the package?
I think these instructions were made to make it easy to understand for everyone.
when the manual was first made available the pictures actually helped correct what was written.
completely agree with Wrong Way. The intention is to create a project which is accessible for everyone. This means anyone should have the ability build the printer, even if they are not a rocket scientist. People with lesser ‘mechanical’ and/or ‘electronic’ skills have the possibility to build their own printer.
‘A picture tells a Thousand words’… So I think the manual serves it’s purpose.
Hmmm but people who need so much pictures to make this printer… What are they going to do with this printer then? Because their short memory doesn’t work (they need this manual), they also need many many pictures of how to use repetier and how to use the variabel parameters. And when they must configurate the voltage of the motor, the speed of the filament or the temperature of the bed and nozzle. And how to make this compatible with the PLA and/or ABS (which is still under construction I read in this forum) and the difference in the cable diameter.
Or simply said; the manual doesn’t fit with the complexity of the printer. Its like a scientist must learn new discovery’s with sesamy street…
But, thats just an opinion. Replying how to mount a bolt with 4 pictures of every bolt seems a bit too much to me.
regardless of the number of pictures created or not I think it would be very benificial to create the wiring looms as a seperate entity and introduce into the assembly once completed.
Ive also just removed the ribbon cable conections to the heated bed and fitted propper wires and now able to get the bed temperature above 60°C without it taking a fortnight (ok slight exhageration) I can apreciate why this was a change from the 3DRAG version but I think its a bit of a backward step.
