M3 pulley screws / heated bed warm up time

Hi,

I finished building the kit a week ago and have been debugging some minor issues. Some good prints are already finished, so I know I’m getting closer to a good running machine. The following 2 questions are the ones that I don’t seem to get fixed by simply browsing the forum or looking at the machine.

Can somebody point me in to right direction ?

[ul]
[li] What size of hex screwdriver do you use to tighten the X and Y motor pulley M3 hew screws. I have a 1.5mm and 2mm hex screwdriver and they are both to small or to big. So does a 1.75mm even exist or am I wrong somewhere ? At the moment I can’t stop is from slipping.

[/li]
[li] The heated bed … is it really that slow to heat up ? Getting it from 15°C to 45°C (my current default) takes a full hour. Getting it even higher seems almost impossible, I never got it to 50°C. Can I somehow measure if something is wrong with the heated bed and/or the temperature sensor ? Or is this just the normal way ?[/li][/ul]

Thanks for your time :slight_smile:

Just another guess.

What is the your room temp.
The bed is a very large surface that cools very easy.

If you have wind blowing on it or if it’s to cold in you room that would slow it down from heating and make it very hard to hit the temp 50c or 60c that you want.

Before I start to print I make sure that my room is at least 72F or greater.

Hi Mr.ChronoM,

takes about 15min to go from 20°C to 50°C. Max temp with standard power supply about 70°C.
If you want faster heating of higher temperatures for the bed, you’ll probably need an other power supply for the bed.
Already some topics spend on the issue, just browse the forum.

Kind regards,
BigDee

Ok, that sound like some good options to check for the bed. The room temp is very low, around 15°C.

Anyone know the size of the screwdriver for the pulley bolt ? :slight_smile:

Thanks for the fast replies !

Hi Mr.ChronoM,

M3 grub screws should have a socket for a 1.5 mm Allen key (ISO 4026). However, for such small wrench sizes, it’s easy to apply enough torque to deform both the socket and the key (depending on which steel is harder …). If you want to be sure, you might want to measure your key with a calliper. If it’s the screw, the easiest way would be to get a replacement.

Do you have a set of imperial-sized Allen keys? 1/16" is slightly larger than 1.5 mm so this could work; 5/64" however is already quite near to 2 mm, and /128 keys are rare. Apart from that, only things from the category “high risk of further damage” come to mind, like crucifying a Torx bit for example. Might work, but not recommended.

Cheers,
kuraasu