That is a bit easyer 
My extruder extrude 10cm now
And i have my filament set on 3mm (i have remeasured) in CuraEngine with 100% flow.
But when i go to print, then there comes no filament on the glassbed.
And when i set the filament on 2mm then comes the filament and stick on the glassbed but then gives the extruder to much filament.
Does it really extrude nothing? When set to 3mm?
By the way, how did you measure the filament? With a caliper?
I never had a roll that was exactly 3mm.
Did you calibrate your nozzle distance correctly?
The nozzle should be as close to the heatbed as possible when homed.
There shold barely fit a piece of printing paper between nozzle and heatbed.
Yes i have my filament with a caliper measured.
And my filament is 3.2mm.
My distance was not alright i think.
I have it now good and look at the result 
Nice to hear it’s working.
Happy Printing!
cheers,
Christian
Thank you very much for your answers!
Hi,
My first printing failed.
I had the same situation , I’m new , extruder hit the print, I had “O” in firmware window on Repetier Host 0,84. I did the firmware upgrade to V2 Marlin ( uncommented #define EEPROM_CHITCHAT ). When I open the window with firmware settings I see values, but when I skip from frame to other I receive a red warning that value is not number. Is it problem with old Repetier version ?
On the Velleman download page ( k8200.eu/support/downloads/) I’ve founded that information: Version 2 of the k8200 firmware called Marlin . supports the VM8201 (LCD and SD card controller.
Does it mean that it is not supported for standard K8200 printer ?
What is now the best choice of Repetier version + K8200 firmware + Slic3r ?
Is it possible to upgrade Slic3r on the Repetier installed software ?
Please Help me .
Regards
Robert.
[quote=“monda”]Hi,
My first printing failed.
I had the same situation , I’m new , extruder hit the print, I had “O” in firmware window on Repetier Host 0,84. I did the firmware upgrade to V2 Marlin ( uncommented #define EEPROM_CHITCHAT ). When I open the window with firmware settings I see values, but when I skip from frame to other I receive a red warning that value is not number. Is it problem with old Repetier version ?
[/quote]
Can you post a screenshot please?
[quote]On the Velleman download page ( k8200.eu/support/downloads/) I’ve founded that information: Version 2 of the k8200 firmware called Marlin . supports the VM8201 (LCD and SD card controller.
Does it mean that it is not supported for standard K8200 printer ?[/quote]
Yes, the V2 firmware supports the K8200 WITH or WITHOUT optionally lcd controller.
It’s also recommended to use v2 because it disables the endstops during print.
[quote]What is now the best choice of Repetier version + K8200 firmware + Slic3r ?
Is it possible to upgrade Slic3r on the Repetier installed software ?
Please Help me .
[/quote]
I currently use repetier host 1.0.6 which comes with included slic3r and also the (my opinion) way better and faster CuraEngine slicer.
Installs all in one package.
As Repetier Host uses slic3r and cura engine as externally running libraries you can upgrade both of them independently.
cheers,
Christian
Here you have screenshot:
Thank you for your answers. I’'l try to use 1.0.6 Repetier for printing. What is tha main reason to use additional glass mirror for heat printbed, which was used by Joran90 ?
Regards Robert.
[quote=“monda”]Here you have screenshot:
Thank you for your answers. I’'l try to use 1.0.6 Repetier for printing. What is tha main reason to use additional glass mirror for heat printbed, which was used by Joran90 ?
Regards Robert.[/quote]
Using a mirror (cheap from Swedish Furniture store 
) or glass plate on the heatbed has 2 effects.
First is: the headtbed is more even, because the glass plate minimizes the bending of the heatped PCB.
Second is: the heatbed looses less temperature and holds temperature better, because glass itself is a bad thermal conductor.
Both will in sum improve the adhesion of your prints to the bed.
cheers,
Christian
[quote=“ichbinsnur”][quote=“monda”]Here you have screenshot:
Thank you for your answers. I’'l try to use 1.0.6 Repetier for printing. What is tha main reason to use additional glass mirror for heat printbed, which was used by Joran90 ?
Regards Robert.[/quote]
Well your screenshot image is a bit small
Using a mirror (cheap from Swedish Furniture store ) or glass plate on the heatbed has 2 effects.
First is: the headtbed is more even, because the glass plate minimizes the bending of the heatped PCB.
Second is: the heatbed looses less temperature and holds temperature better, because glass itself is a bad thermal conductor.
Both will in sum improve the adhesion of your prints to the bed.
cheers,
Christian[/quote]
Ups, now will be better.
When I change dots to commas ( 64.25 to 64,25) red exclamation marks disappear.
I suppose that glass plate on the heatbed need more time for warming. ?
Now it takes about 10 minutes ( from 20 C to 50 C) . In manual I saw more steeper line for heatbed. 10 minutes is it correct time ?
Regards
Robert.
What operating system is your computer running?
Looks like your language settings (locale current and number settings) is messed up.
Normally the dots are decimal separator, but it seems it’s changed to comma as decimal separator on your computer.
Try to set repetier to the same Language as your os or check the os language settings.
Yes, with a glass plate it takes a little longer to heat.
When i used the headped stock powered from the controller i got about 10 minutes for heating up to 50°C
without and about 15 to 18 minutes with galss on it. But the little mor heatup time is absolutely worth the better stickyness.
I now power my Heatbed from an external 24V/150Watts desktop supply (kind of Notebook style)
and get heatup times of about 2 minutes forr 50°C, 8 minutes for 80°C anda about 10-12 minutes for 100°C.
All this with glass plate installed. I used thermal compound between bed PCB and glass for more even heating.
Next will be tu insulate the bottom of the PCB with a sheet of cork, to prevent heat loss to the underside.
I will rewire the theatbed also, as the stock ribbon cable causes too much voltage drop due to it’s thin wires. (21V instead of 24V measured at the heatbed)
With proper cable it will heatup even faster.
cheers,
Christian
Hallo Christian,
Thank you for your help.
I made an upgrade of Repetier to 1.0.6 and now it’s better. But the problem is setting. On internet I’ve found ready to use settings for Printer, print and filament.
I did the first PLA printing. It was boardcover I see on two sites of the cover small printing errors. Do you know what is the problem ?. It was printed with setting 190 C / 50 C . Is it normal, that whole surface of the boardcover has small lines ?
PS
I bought mirror and cork and later want to pimp my K8200. Where do you found 150W notebook power supply. ?
cheers,
Robert
Hi Robert.
The small lines come from the layering of the filament.
They are unavoidable in Fused Filament printing.
You can only get smoother walls by reducing the layer height or proccessing the part after printing.
ABS Parts can be smoothed almost polished looking with Acetone vapor. [color=#FF0000]THIS IS QUITE DANGEROUS![/color]
The repeated pattern of thicker lines (if you measure they will be at 1.25mm offset)
is caused by Z-wobble. (inconcentric movement of the Z threaded rod)
The wobble effect can be reduced by using a flex coupler between Motor and threaded rod.
With the leadscrew upgrade (K8204) it is almost completely removed.
The outward facing imperfections look like overshoot in the axis movement.
Check if your X and Y pulleys aren’t loose on the motor axes and that your belts are tight. (don’t overtighten though)
For the Power supply i chose one from Meanwell, can be sourced by Reichelt.
I chose the enclosed (notebook supply style) version mainly for security reasons. It’s power is just barely enough. (120w)
There are other supplies from the same manufacturer that have open accessible screw terminals for the
electrical connections, and so MUST be put in a case to avoid putting Live voltage to the risk of getting touched.
cheers,
Christian
Here are links to the Power supply i used :
reichelt.de/Netzteile-Festsp … W+GS120A24
and the bigger version :
reichelt.de/Netzteile-Festsp … W+GS220A24
cheers,
Christian
[quote=“Joran90”]Hello,
I have a problem with my K8200.
the first layer its good but after that layers the extruder hit the printing object, and mesh it up.
what can i do to solved the problem?
Sorry for my bad English, i’m Dutch.[/quote]
ty to play whit your extruder multiply number
it helpt for me
i use simply3d now an that usses a standard of 0.85 for the K8200
speel wat met de waarde van de extrusie multiplier
ik gebruik nu simply3d en die gebruikt 0.85 als standaard voor de k8200
ook een andere dikte van de draad waar mee je print dan in de software kan dit veroorzaken