Hi All,
i just assembled a K8055 and played around for about 10 minutes with the sdk examples (blinking lights and stuff…) when it suddenly stopped working.
First thing i tried was to plug it out and plug it in again. Now LD8 Blinks 2 times and then stays lit.
Windows (7 64bit) reports that the device has a problem and has been stopped - Code 43 (0x2B)
Any idea whats wrong?
Thx!
This may be some sort of Win 7 64-bit driver problem.
Have you tried other USB slot?
Do you have possibility to test the card in other PC?
You can try the solution mentioned in this thread in the Microsoft forum:
answers.microsoft.com/en-us/wind … c7f?page=2
if i unplug it and leave it for about an hour it will work again, but only for a limited amount of time (which varies between 5 and 30 minutes)
I Had the chance to test the device and everything works fine while its running.
Only the analog inputs spike pretty much in the first 2 mins when its connected (which might be normal, i dont know…) and i did not test PWM Output because i dont know how 
Allso tried another USB Cable, different Ports and another Computer (Win XP Sp3 32bit) but its allways the same…
This sequence of LD8 (1-0-1-0-1 stay lit), does it mean something?
And maybe thats important to:
The Capacitor on C6 should be ‘220nF/50V~’ according to the guide but no such part with that printed on it was included.
But there was a part which looks like a Ceramic Capacitor, blue with the number 224 printed on it.
When i finished soldering the other parts only the 224 thing a LED and 4 Resistors where left, so i figured that its probably the 224 thing.
I’m pretty sure that its correct because on the picture of the box inlay there is also a blue thing soldered into C6.
Thanks for you support!
It seems there may be something wrong with the card.
The LED LD 8 sequence means that the microcontroller starts to operate but the USB “enumeration” process fails and the LED LD8 stays being lit.
[quote]Ceramic Capacitor, blue with the number 224 printed on it[/quote] Yes, this is C6 = 220nF.
[quote]Only the analog inputs spike pretty much in the first 2 mins when its connected (which might be normal, i dont know…)[/quote]This is not normal.
Please check the value of R35 (next to the C6), should be 1k5.
Please check also capacitors C4 and C5 (33pF) next to crystal X1.
I checked the 3 parts, they are correct.
(I mean that the correct parts have been soldered in - did not check if these parts do what they are built for. I’m not capable of doing that)
And also checked all resistors. Since they are nicely grouped, this went faster than i expected.
About the analog readings, they are not just spiking, they are shifting around but tend to go in the right direction.
For example 0V reads 40 and 5V reads 60.
Later 0V reads 80 and 5V reads 200.
I’m still learning and i thought that i have to adjust this using the Potentiometers… Guess i was wrong
I did some further testing:
When i read analog values in a close loop like:
while(1){ReadAllAnalog(&a1, &a2);}the card locks up immediately
Then i wrote a test program that uses every other feature except analog read randomly, and it ran about two hours until the card was stuck again…
Thanks for your time!
[quote]For example 0V reads 40 and 5V reads 60.
Later 0V reads 80 and 5V reads 200.[/quote]This is not OK.
If you keep the jumper caps on pin headers SK2 and SK3 installed and turn the potentiometers from min to max position, you should get readings 0 to 255.
Please check the IC1 and IC3 installation and soldering.
Not all soldering points where what you would call shiny and cone shaped so i put some time in it making it so.
I removed all IC* from their sockets before doing so…
Now the dll freezes somewhere in OpenDevice.
I Guess, there was some part that could not take the heat of my soldering iron 
What Do you think, is there still hope for this device?
If you can provide links to HI-RES and SHARP pictures (e.g. a free online picture base) of both solder and component side, we can take a look at your assembly.
Please see this post as an example: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5899
Everybody is asleep so i made the Photos in the Basement where the Light isn’t very good.
IMO the Photos should be good, but if they are not i can take better ones tomorrow.
Thank you for the pictures.
The soldering looks good.
There on the bottom side of the board seems to be something like solder solvent or flux residue.
If you used solder solvent or flux, you have to clean the board now very carefully.
Here some instructions how to remove different type of flux: nuxx.net/wiki/Flux_Removal
Wow, its working
I used some expensive environment friendly solder…
And i did notice the greasy stuff and allso asked the guy who sold me the solder. he told me that its normal and does not matter…
Thank you very much for your support!