K2636 kit AC motor control - power off/on switching

Dear Sirs (and fellow tinkerers)!
First the question, then the explanation: where in the circuit of K2636 could I put a switch (and in which way) to completely “switch off” the current (to completely stop the motor) - first I thought about just minimizing the rotation (both VR under the limit), but the instructions clearly says I shouldn’t. So what to do? Where to modify the circuit and how?

The explanation:
I am just thinking about getting a K2636 kit, to regulate my dremel tool. Bigger powerdrills have a “progressive” power button, but my device has only an on/off switch and I have ruined so many boards I tried to drill that I became fed up. First I was thinking to make only a on/off switch in a form of a pedal (pedal would control a power relay) (well, I wil probably make this anyway, there are so many other useful appplications.) Then I remembered, how the things work with the bigger power-drills: more you push the button, quicker it gets. And I went hunting for a suitable control device. First I looked thorough eBay, but started to doubt the quality and reliability. And came to a local reseller of Velleman, which had exactly a kit for me. With the exception that I can’t quickly switch off the power with this kit. I thought to myself, I will regulate it with the (already mentioned) relay at the power exit (or input, that is also the question actually)(regulate in a way that I use foot pedal, where there is a foot controlled potentiometer, like in wahs and volume pedals and sewing machines), but then I looked at the circuit and said to myself, there must be a way I won’t have to use a power relay, just make a switch somewhere in the circuit to cut the power. And do that in a way that I would be dealing with low DC (so it can go directly to the pedal, with no relay circuitry. The trimmers are directly in the high voltage path, so this is not the way - oh, is the whole low voltage DC circuitry really “floating” on high voltage AC? Should I use a photocoupler so somewhere? But where? Maybe it wouldn’t be bad to “rework” this kit in a way that would provide a “power off” function. It could be my question is extremely stupid and simple, but I got to know a little about the amps and stuff, but fairly nothing about AC power, electromotors and their regulation. Thanks for the answer!
jernej

-_-
Anyone?

How do I contact the admins /support on this forum?
The discobot nicely offered their help, but I don’t seem to find the option …

We suggest a potentiometer with an integrated switch.
When you start to turn it activate the switch and then you can adjust the potentiometer.
Connect the contacts of the switch with the mains voltage. PLEASE BE CAREFULL!
Here’s an example.
http://www.alphapotentiometers.net/html/12mm_rot_pot___sw.html

Please note, we can not held responsible. As you will modify your kit.

Thank you for your answer.
Which one should I control with the switch: SK1, SK2 or SK3 - and which of the terminals, L or N?
If I see correctly from the schematic there is no other method to switch on and off because there is no real switching going on in C6, C7, L1, R13, TR1 assembly, just sinewave “modulation”? (Some basic working explanation in the instructions would be beneficial).
The second question is the earthing of the kit. Ground from the circuit should be probably connected to the outlet earth?
(In the next revision of the instructions it probably won’t be bad to include a warning about the (correct) earthing).

What about the mains filtering? When I was browsing through the IEC sockets for the project, I found some with filters attached (I like to scavenge the IEC outlets from old PC PSUs) - is it a good idea to use one? Which values to use (R, Cx, Cy, coil)? Is the commmon setup for a PC PSU OK?

You cannot be too careful when handling high voltage. Specially when dealing with live AC.

The “low torque problem” you are writing about in the instructions - if (using the mains from outlet) phase goes to phase and neutral to neutral, is it still possible to happen - or is this exactly that problem (and you wrote this more for the users of a lower AC (another trafo), which could get the sides of their power trafo mixed … ?

Even if I dont tinker with the kit you cannot be held responsible, it’s a DIY kit and so fully my responsability.