I’d be grateful if someone could clarify if i’ve positioned the zenor diode correctly. The instructions were good but i’m wondering if i interpreted the ‘bar’ on the zenor diodes correctly for their position. I’ve now done two and … they don’t seem to work - i’ve gone wrong somewhere!
The thin black bar or grey bar should correspond to the bar in the diagram
Zener diodes are correctly placed.
Sorry, impossible to tell why it does not work.
Bad soldering, defective component, wiring problem, incompatibility, etc…
Start by checking if the kit works as it should.
We have mailed you a small drawing, how to test the kit.
I thought i’d got the soldering done correctly… followed the instructions carefully. I’m a mechanical engineering graduate (20 odd yrs ago now) so while i don’t have a good understanding of electronics i try and use logic.
Many thanks for the diagram by email. What your saying is; apply volts 1] +ve and 4] -ve, lamp across terminals 1] & 3] (where the coil would be), and the push button switch is effectively the switch on the points.
I could well have been unlucky with a faulty component somewhere. I’ll have then investigate further. I was so pleased you do this kit. I bought a Hall Effect unit which didn’t work and others seem to have poor quality control. So i put my faith in this - i used to have a Boyer Bransden one which did fine for about 5 years. As you know condensors for older cars are now very poor things. I drove to buy fuel on saturday and had trouble… just managed to make it back. Hence why i’m keen to get this sorted out - i bought four kits a couple of months ago… so i wanted to be sure i’ve done it right this time.
In addition i would be grateful if you could clarify whether the distributor condensor HAS TO be removed. I know the instructions say it does but that is opposite to what the other TAC units like Bower Bransden say which is just to leave it in place as it’s redundant (but useful if something does go wrong with the unit and one needs to just disconnect the wires and revert back to points & condensor). I DID remove the dizzy condensor but just wondered that’s all - i would have thought the kit instructions say remove it just to avoid confusion for the less technical.
As i see it the easiest way to test is; with dizzy out [or using a spare] connect up the LT circuit with an earth cable from dizzy body to engine block (or decent earth) - removing king lead! and placing a test lamp from battery -ve to coil -ve. With ignition on if you rotate the dizzy driving tongues the light will come on/should come on when the points open.
Saw your pictures of the Zener diode directions. I haven’t started soldering yet, I could not understand the correct Zener diode directions from the Velleman directions.
My questions are: Were the zener diode directions shown in your pictures correct?
Do you have your system working?
