i do not know if anyone will offer support since its a non velleman product, but i just installed e3dv6 and having problems with it clogging. I am using the velleman heat cartridge and heat sensor. Temp goes up to 190C and i hand turn the extruder; and maybe about 2-3mm will come out but after that it stops. When i dissemble the nozzle and pull out the filament its like its melted the exact length of the heat break. Any advise on what i can try out?
If i see that right, the filament doesn’t look too bad.
It’s normal that it has a 3-5mm bulge at the tip after extruding.
Only if that bulge is greater in length it will bind in the heatbreak.
Ensure the cooling fan is constantly running.
Maybe turn the teperature up 10 or 20 °c.
The e3d has a very small heated area compared to the Velleman hotend, so you might set the temp a bit higher.
Did you try to push the filament though the nozzle manually?
That way you can get a good impression of how much force is needed to extrude.
Yes i do have the fan connected directly to the power supply inline with a resistor. i was able to get the filament to flow with the temp raise to 210C. Is the 210C temp will be the new norm for printing prints then?
For me it turned out that (depending on print speed) i have to set the Extruder temp
about 20°C higher then with the velleman extruder.
The nozzle diameter will also have an influence.
The faster you print and the smaller the nozzle, the more temp you will need.
Currently i’m printing an objet with yellow pla and 0.25 nozzle at 240°C
I think the cause is the very small area of molten filament in the E3D hotend.
hi all i also have had allot of issue with the E3D extruder.
after some research on the web i noticed allot of poeple has issue with the E3D and PLA/PHA.
thats because PLA/PHA are on a Sugar basis. therefore it sticks on the inside from the shockbracker (becease of the heat). and will block the flow.
to solve this (it also solved my problems) is to put a realy thin layer of seasoning oil on the filement.
the seasoning oil will create a Anti-stick coating inside the shock braker.
and nice to know the poeple from E3D never noticed this as they mainly print on ABS and with ABS you dont have these kind of problement.
I have the E3D V6 too and i print most of my prints in PLA without any trouble with jamming.
No oil or other tricks needed.
But it was necessary to set the extrusion Temp about 20-30°C higher.
Until now i only had jams when printing black abs, where the filament turned out to be quite impure.
With my reworked extruder inlay i can now also print NinjaFlex at speeds up to 50-60mm/s.
I found out that i have better filament flow with it printing stiff filaments (ABS/PLA) too.
I have an E3D-V5 running here with great success. The hot end is wrapped with teflon tape, to keep the thermistor at its place and in tight contact to the heating block. I didn’t notice any differences in the printing temperatures in comparison to the stock hot end, where I used the same setup with teflon or kapton tape.
Recently I printed blue filament from NuNu at 188, just now I’m printing with white from Velleman at 190 degrees.
I’m printing at low speeds, 20-30 mm/s, which may have an influence on the neccessary temp.
PLA and ABS both gave no problems, ABS prints were looking REALLY good. No oiling of the filament needed so far. Only one time I had to disassamble the hot end for cleaning until now.
Another time molten filament got into the upper part of the hot end, causing the filament to totally get stuck. This could be solved by switching the E3D-fan off and slowly let the block with the cooling fins get hot, until the filament got weak. This way it could be pushed through into the heating block and everything was well without disassambling anything.
Soon I will try ichbinsnur’s redessigned extruder part to print with flexible materials.
The E3D hotends have a very small area where the filament gets heated.
So, when increasing the extrusion speed (print faster) the heater must supply much more
heat to get the filament fully molten within that small heated area.
If i print at low speeds around 20mm i can also use about 190°c.
I dont know what the problem is with these E3Dv6 Hotends.
I printed exactly two objects with it. They look fantastic at 0.1mm Layer Height.
And thats everything good i can tell about the E3Dv6.
Now, i got a Jam in every print i do.
I tried everything i can find to solve this Problem.
Printing slower, printing faster, printing hotter, installed second 40mm fan, let both fans run at 14V.
I noticed the pourly acourate manufactured Heatbreak and tried to drill the start of the noozle to compensate that. Like in this Thead: forum.e3d-online.com/viewtopic.p … t=90#p1735
Well, what can i say, zero improvement.
After i read about a user in the e3d jam Thread, who exchanged the Heatbrake and noozle of his almost new jamming Hotend, he can print again for 5-10 Hours till it jams again.
So, ive got absolutely no idea how to get it to work.
I think the only way is to change it for a cheap china made copy of whatever hotend. At least they work.
I dont know why one user can get it to work without a problem and the next cant even get 10% of his print jobs to finish. Maybe it works just with a few PLA sorts on the market.
[quote=“cantax”]I dont know what the problem is with these E3Dv6 Hotends.
I printed exactly two objects with it. They look fantastic at 0.1mm Layer Height.
And thats everything good i can tell about the E3Dv6.
Now, i got a Jam in every print i do.
I tried everything i can find to solve this Problem.
Printing slower, printing faster, printing hotter, installed second 40mm fan, let both fans run at 14V.
I noticed the pourly acourate manufactured Heatbreak and tried to drill the start of the noozle to compensate that. Like in this Thead: forum.e3d-online.com/viewtopic.p … t=90#p1735
Well, what can i say, zero improvement.
After i read about a user in the e3d jam Thread, who exchanged the Heatbrake and noozle of his almost new jamming Hotend, he can print again for 5-10 Hours till it jams again.
So, ive got absolutely no idea how to get it to work.
I think the only way is to change it for a cheap china made copy of whatever hotend. At least they work.
I dont know why one user can get it to work without a problem and the next cant even get 10% of his print jobs to finish. Maybe it works just with a few PLA sorts on the market.[/quote]
Well I had many jam issues as well. I decided to put the original one back on. I’ll continue with the other upgrades I had planned. (Z axis wobble). After that I will give the e3dv6 another shot.
