I assembled the hotend as per the instruction, but got weirded out when asked to push the thermistor in the small hole (on the side bottom right where it’s mounted), as it obviously would not fit.
The end result:
My question: is this the correct way to mount this thermistor? I ask, cause I’m wondering very much on what the hole on the front (left top) is for. It dawned on me, that I could have fitted the thermistor carefully by sliding it through the hole.
It does seem to work, as I went through the testing phase (partly). My best guess is that the hotend now reaches a higher temperature than the thermistor will indicate. This might become a problem in the future.
No, this is not correct.
The heater block can handle two types of thermistors.
The bulb-type goes into the little hole, while the ‘diode’-type goes ‘through’ the heater block.
After opening the page in a desktop browser, I was able to read (and see) what I was supposed to do.
I hereby inform you of the fact that the PDF version of this page does not include the instructions for the larger version of the NTC.
I had been building the printer using the PDF’s on my iPad, as the images on the site wouldn’t load inline in the mobile browser.
Now I have cut the legs of the diode relatively short. As you can see on the pic, the wire is pretty much next to it, giving me just under 1cm to work with.
I’m about to take it apart cafully, desoldering the wire at the flat cable end to get it through the heating block. I will then carefully slide the cut sleeves over each other either on or next to the ntc, creating a slight overlap. Then I’ll slide the whole thing in the front as the page mentions. Will this be enough to fix my problem, or is the fact that the solder is INSIDE the housing going to be a problem?
I can use some serious advise on this before I decide to move on. Still waiting on the motor driver replacement, so I have time to spare.
I don’t think that solder inside the housing will be problem at all, solder tin should start melting on 280C and upwards, but before that white pft plastic will melt.
soldering the short remaining wires from the thermistor will probably proove near to impossible, considering that you need to make sure that they are insulated against the metal of the heater block after pushing the thermistor into the through hole. Few insulating material can take the temperatures present in direct contact with the heater block, in fact, only PTFE and Kapton (polyimide) come to mind.
I’d recommend two things:
get a second thermistor as replacement, and
use some Kapton tape to attach the thermistor to the heater block in its present position and insulate it from airflow, so that it will give a more accurate temperature measurements in the meantime.
[quote=“VEL417”]No, this is not correct.
The heater block can handle two types of thermistors.
The bulb-type goes into the little hole, while the ‘diode’-type goes ‘through’ the heater block.
I have just received this kit in Australia. The printed manual refers me to k8200.be/manual/building. The instructions at Chapter 19 also did not include any for the larger thermistor. The mystery was solved when I read of the issue here (and downloaded from the link you gave). Even then, based on earlier instructions I had cut off ‘half’ the heating elements’ sleeves. So there is no ‘longer’ sleeve.
BTW, great quality to the components.
[color=#FF0000]STOP PRESS! PDF is not the same as download! Back to square one![/color]
i have just made the same mistake this afternoon because the pdf documentation is still missing the diode type ntc assembly instructions and it’s useless now. little bit frustrating in the finish. do you supply spare parts?
