So, I had hoped that I could print PVA on the K8400, but now that I have tried, I can say that its not possible for me as I believe for nobody else.
How about HIPS. I read you need a bed temp of about 100 degrees Celsius, given that I have ordered the parts for a MK3 modification of a heat bed, should printing with HIPS work?
They say it prints like ABS, but lets hear from folks who have tried. Will it work? Will it dissolve with chemistry afterwards?
I have a roll but didn’t test it ATM. As far as I know, it’s not so easy to get it sticking to the bed.
[quote=“MagnusT”]Will it dissolve with chemistry afterwards?[/quote]Yes but with D-Limonene which is quite hard to find (at least in the UE) and it’s not cheap.
Raby,
Would it stick to PLA.
The reason I ask is if you made a base layer or raft of PLA then would it work?
I don’t have PVA yet
Ok, so your telling me that it will work 
I guess we have to get some Kazakhstani smuggling ring up and running.
ebay.com/itm/100-d-Limonene- … 1070961649
I guess it’s doable. I’m in Denmark myself, so its a little like in North Korea compared to US here too.
The alternate for me is to have these parts Aluminum CNC’ed, so the cost perspective isn’t hard to make as its 4x4 in fixtures. Alternatively I could glue smaller subsections together, but… PVA had been nice.
Wrong Way
You can have my PVA, it simply don’t stick. Its just being thwarted around getting stuck on the other nozzle and jamming everything. It got better at 210 degree, but they claim it should be left at 160 or so. After a while the nozzle seemed to have been clogged.
Magnus did you perhaps read my post at the end of this thread? viewtopic.php?f=64&t=13709#p67267
// Marlark
Yes you genius Marlark. Why I said, that I could not get it to play, with regards to exactly that post. I figured with the mount of effort you put into it, it would not be feasible for me to reinvent the wheel, but simply accept it as a fact till I hear otherwise. IT was quite apparent within the first 20 seconds of the PVA, that it wasn’t going to work.
Now I just need to solve the sidestep after 6 hours. Will try to install cooling fins on the drive boards. Worked on the K8200, so maybe here too. If it prints well for 6 hours, I don’t think its friction in the setup, that are causing it.
Magnus,
Thank you for your offer but that’s ok.
I was just wondering if there was away to help.
Thought so. I had hell getting it to work as you did. right now im testing the PrintinZ plate when doing PVA but it is not good enouph adhesion for it but it works as long as you do not make large prints. Going to test heatbed when i get the custom sized one i ordered. Also going to try out D-C Fix for this. As i wrote it is a dangerus filament to toy with. Wouldnt recomend anyone to take it on unless your a adrenalin junkie and in for a world of hurt. Only reason why i jumped on this project was i want to get it to work flawlessly. Atm i can not say it is flawless but i can say that the printhead part works for me flawlessly however the adhesion to the plate sucks donkey balls (Appolagize in advance for the choice of words) especuly on the cold buildtak plate (litteraly non existing) 
PS anyone trying PVA do not under any reason raise the print temp above 190-200C it sticks better yes but you can kiss your nozzle goodbye. Think the trick is getting a surface that will hold the PVA to the buildplate at the lower temps including PLA or other materials at the same time.
// Marlark
Sorry for my late reply Marlark, had to stop laughing before I could answer. I believe you weighed your words cautiously and with greater respect than circumstances allow. If anyone know of a second hand fork lift shop, so I can fork lift my prints of the BuildAttack surface I would be most grateful. I’m in negotiations with the local chain saw dealer as well, to compliment the effort. As BuildAttack stress, use not sharp tools!
I will let you know how my MK3 conversion comes along. Just have to figure out what clogs the nozzle. As WrongWay points out I need a torch, or a lot of nozzles in spare.
Lets make a D-C dare contest… Looser picks up the bar tab…
I may have to read up on the actual chemical components of it all. Maybe something better exists than D-C.
Marlak how is that state with the PVA?
Did you tried your heated bed, the PrintinZ bed or the D-C-Fix foil?
Would be nice if you could a status update on this.
Thanks