Hi all,
When I bought my Vertex3D I’ve seen I can add optionnally a heating bed. OK, I’ve even seen there seems to be some remaining connectors into the mainboard to manage it, cool ! So my question is simple : which one is “the one” for the Vertex3D printer, the one that will be “plug & play” : supported by mainboard & provided software, right size, etc… ?
I can engrave electronical circuits (UV, acid, …), maybe another (cheaper) option is to made one by myself (?) Any information in that way will be appreciated too !
You can’t install a heated bed without upgrading your power supply : either by installing a second power supply (24V) or by replacing the stock one with a more powerful one (15V).
With a 24V power supply you can use a power expander (ready made or home-made).
With a 15V power supply connected on the 12V input of the heated bed you’d better use a SSR (solid state relay DC-DC).
For the heated bed :
MK3 215x215 mm.
Marlak’s heated bed (my choice) 240x215 mm. This bed is perfectly flat which is not always the case with the MK3. Use of a SSR and a 500W 15V power supply needed.
For the installation of a MK3 you can have a look at the Wiki.
@Zorro_X
There’s no plug & play heatbed for the Vertex.
In Marlark’s post ‘Custom size mk3 heatbed’ there’s lots of information. Somewhere overthere too you can find a pdf with instructions.
@Raby
This SSR, how do you connect it instead of the Power Expander?
Connect signal connection to the input on the ssr + to + and - to -
Connect - from psu to the heatbed directly
Connect + from psu to ssr output and - from ssr output to heatbed. well there isnt realy a ± on the ssr just connection numbers usualy 1 - 4 but you get the point im making hehe
I have placed my MK3 heated bed from , and this are my first measurements.
Powered by a separate 24V 200W-power supply, adjusted to it’s maximum voltage of 27,28V (is 27,14V at the beds terminals).
Heated as table, alu-side upwards, Glass+buildtak on top.
Current consumption is 4,28A, so there is 116W heat dissipated. At this power, only 80°C is obtained.
After 15 minutes, I had the following measurements: at about 1,5cm off the front side:
70°C measured with Testp contact thermometer
75°C measured with Fluke IR-thermometer
74°C on Vertex display.
Conclusion is that the heatbed is not useable in this situation (24V, unisolated bottom-side) to obtain 100°C.
I will try to power it at another voltage in the 12V-mode, and maybe I will first Isolate the bottom side, so less energy is lost there.
Insert a sheet of cork under the bed. And the glass (and even less the Buildtak) isn’t necessary. You’d better print directly on the alu plate coated with a 3D adhesive spray.
Could you please show me a link to an SSR I can use instead of the Power Expander (Marlark’s heatbed 12V configuration)?
I am afraid to order the wrong one.
The alu plate bulges a bit when heated. So I do not recommend eliminating the glass. Cork or some insulator is a must though.
Im using the MK3 in 12V mode and adjusted the second PSU to ~15V. This gives acceptable results with two sheets of baking silicone mats underneath and the original glass plate on top. 100C takes a while, but it gets there.
As for 3D adhesive spray; Im curious, does it work better than hairspray?
Dimafix supposedly works from +50C and releases below that. FWIW, I find hairspray works at almost any temperature, but if you print at high temperature, it will typically release at room temperature. Sometimes I put the glass plate in the deepfreezer to get it to release faster
Then again, for the price, its not like Im saving a lot of money by using hairspray. It does have the advantage of smelling nice though
