Hi lads,
I’ve just ordered some GT2-20 belt and pulleys for my printer. The X and Y are easy to change But I would also like to add a second Z axis joined by the GT2 belt but it has to be a loop.
Has anyone here done this and how did you glue the belt into a loop?
Also what EEPROM setting did you enter for the X and Y axis? I’m using the 2mm pitch belt and 20 toothed pulley.
Did you also notice an improvement?
Thanks
Hello, I have replaced the original M8 threaded rod with an trapetzoidal one and also added a second one on the right side of the machine. I printed new pulles for the original T5 belt that were delivered with the machine. I was able to join the belt by cutting it with a knife to half the thickness and then gluing them with superglue, the joints have been running for some weeks now without any problem.
The settings for your new x&Y steps / mm would be 3200/(202) = 80 steps / mm. I have also changed my X&Y pulleys but I choosed the 16 tooth pulleys so I have 3200/(162) = 100 steps / mm.
You can have a look on my rebuild machine here:
//Martin
Hello Martin,
as you describe in your post you have been changing the x and y pulleys to 16-teeth pulleys.
I am going todo the same, but because of the smaller diameter of the pulleys there might be collision with the rods and the belts.
A post of the way how your fixed that problem would be very helpful.
Did you use 16-teeth pulleys aas idlers as well?
Your construction with 2 z-spindles is great. What sort of glue is the best for it?
schumsel293
Cheers Martin, I entered your settings and tested with a calibration cube I have used in the past and it came out great.
My bed is now much smoother to move by hand, before my X pulley was off centre and you could feel it change the resistance of the bed as it tightened and then loosened the belt on that axis as it moved over the off centre pulley.
I also tried the trick of wood glue diluted in water for the first time today, my bed was good before but now the first layer is perfect and doesn’t pull away when doing the infill like before.
I am currently printing my own design of 2nd Z axis, a lot like yours but sitting inside the right post so I don’t have to move my control board.
Thanks for the help
I apologies if this is the wrong place to ask this but since you are talking about the GT2 settings here and I couldn’t find any other thread near my answer I thought maybe one of you could help me.
I just installed the GT2-20 to X and Y and of course I have to edit the setting as you already stated above.
My question though is where?
If I change any numbers in EEPROM Configuration my printer is so slow I would grow old before it even got to home position.
(all numbers are 0 as default)
I’m using the K8200 Repetier-Host V0.95F
Hi strangerthanman,
you can either reload the firmware with adapted parameters (in Configuration.h), or use M92 / M500 to change the steps per mm for X and Y, see reprap.org/wiki/G-code.
Cheers,
kuraasu
[quote=“K8200SE”]Hello, I have replaced the original M8 threaded rod with an trapetzoidal one and also added a second one on the right side of the machine. I printed new pulles for the original T5 belt that were delivered with the machine. I was able to join the belt by cutting it with a knife to half the thickness and then gluing them with superglue, the joints have been running for some weeks now without any problem.
The settings for your new x&Y steps / mm would be 3200/(202) = 80 steps / mm. I have also changed my X&Y pulleys but I choosed the 16 tooth pulleys so I have 3200/(162) = 100 steps / mm.
You can have a look on my rebuild machine here:
//Martin[/quote]
Hi Martin,
You have a lovelly machine, I want to improve my machine too, I have the gt2 16 pulleys and belts bought, do you mind to share the .stl files that you used to improve your machine? Your machine looks perfect for me, brilhant z axis and lovelly fan nozze.
I would like to make mine same as yours.
Please let me know.
Thanks in advice.