Glass bed

I did have problems when doing my first prints getting them to stick to glass, little projects were fine big ones not so much, am currently using blue painters tape,I was wondering if anyone has ever tried using frosted, etched or sandblasted glass, just a thought.

I use hair spray and it seems to do a good job
I think the pump works better so you don’t get it all over the place.

I used to put some hairspray on the glass when it was new. Now I don’t put anything on the glass, big parts stick verywell at 50C, little parts I print with brim.
Important: Clean the glass only mechanically, use a scraper to get rid of PLA residues. Avoid touching the glass with fingers and keep any oil or grease away from it.
If your z-height is low enough (one sheet of paper between nozzle and bed) and your temperature and flow parameters are set well, your prints will stick until the bed has cooled down after printing.

regards

walo

When the first layer prints, do you see the bead of plastic getting squished into the glass? It’s important the plastic doesn’t just lay on top of the glass, it needs some pressure.

At the beginning of the print the Z axis lifts the height of the first layer before printing. Since there is already a gap (the thickness of what you are using between the nozzle and bed, to level it - I used office paper, .1mm) between the nozzle and the bed, this means the height for the 1st layer was higher than all the rest of the layers. In Slic3r>Printer Settings>General, “Z offset” is a way to tell the program that the Z home position isn’t actually touching the nozzle to plate, but that there is a gap, and what that gap is. For me with the .1mm thick office paper setting the gap, I changed the “Z offset” to -.1mm. When the print starts now, the Z axis only lifts .25mm, which is perfect, because I have .35mm for the first layer height, this accounts for the gap between the nozzle and the bed when the Z axis is at home.

One crude trick, to try a different 1st layer height immediately when you see the 1st layer not going down right, is to reach over and twist the Z axis threaded rod by hand a little, and you can immediately see what pushing the nozzle closer or farther away does for the quality of your 1st layer.