Hello everyone. I have run into this issue lately:
When I print, after 3 or so hours of printing, my extruder starts twiching and starts to grind the filament. i dont know, what could be the cause. I am printing GermanRepRap PLA transparent filament at 210 degrees, using E3D v6 hotend, using stock hobbed bolt. I have cheked my spring tension, changed idler bearing, etc, still no solution. Here is a photo of grinded filament:
I think you need to set the temperature a bit higher.
When you use an E3D v6 hotend, the area that melts the filament is relatively small.
I had the same problem, and set the PLA temp to 215-220. When using the factory hotend I ran at 195 degrees on this filament (esun)
/Peter
I have tried printing with 220 Celsius, still happens into 2 hours in print or so
Looks like a clogged nozzle. In my case it was caused by a small piece of copper which prevents a free flow. I could improve it for a while by pushing a thin wire in the nozzle of the heated extruder. However, finally the extruder has to be disassembled to remove the obstruction.
What is the best way to clean the nozzle?
I have no experience with your extruder element. The nozzle of the original hot end has to be removed (and replaced) when the device is hot. Otherwhile the thread at the end of the barrel can be broken. When you have an additional voltage controlled power supply you can perform this task outside the printer by placing the device e.g. in a bench. You can test the temperature by testing if a piece of filament melts when contacting with the nozzle.
Before tinking of nozzle cleaning try this :
Heat the extruder to 230°C and push some filament though, by hand.
Then engage the spring clamp on the filament and extrude 50mm though repetier manual cintrol.
Watch if the filament comes out as a equally round “sausage” not bening or curling to the sides.
If it comes out straight, your nozzle is clean.
Before tinking of nozzle cleaning try this :
Heat the extruder to 230°C and push some filament though, by hand.
Then engage the spring clamp on the filament and extrude 50mm though repetier manual cintrol.
Watch if the filament comes out as a equally round “sausage” not bening or curling to the sides.
If it comes out straight, your nozzle is clean.[/quote]
I did as you told, filament seems to be running smooth, just a little bend, when it touches heatbed.
Before tinking of nozzle cleaning try this :
Heat the extruder to 230°C and push some filament though, by hand.
Then engage the spring clamp on the filament and extrude 50mm though repetier manual cintrol.
Watch if the filament comes out as a equally round “sausage” not bening or curling to the sides.
If it comes out straight, your nozzle is clean.[/quote]
I did as you told, filament seems to be running smooth, just a little bend, when it touches heatbed.[/quote]
Then the nozzle isn’t jammed.
What could be the issue then?
Maybe there are some areas in the filament that have a higher melting point.
I had this with some sorts of pla.
Mostly i could solve the block by printing about 10°C hotter and/or a little slower.
The hobbed bolt of the k8200 extruder is likely to grind, cause it’s teeth are not very sharp.
I never had such issues, even with verly much lower temps (around 190°C) when using the Volcano kit
from e3d, which has the heater block standing upright and thus having a larger melting zone.
Unfortunately it is not usable for smaller (finer) parts at the moment, cause the smallest available nozzle is 0.8mm.
But they mentioned to have a 0.4mm nozzle for the Volcano by end of next month.
cheers,
Christian
Any other thoughts? I have dissasembled my hotend, cleaned the nozzle, but still filament starts grinding after 1-2 hours. This is driving me insane
I can recommend i serious upgrade that will eliminate your grinding and feeding problems.
Look at www.bondtech.se for the next generation of extruders, look at Testimonials where you can see one unit installed on a K8200 printer.
I just “sharpened” the teeth of my hobbed bolt with a dremel.
That really helped a lot.
If it comes to exchanging the whole extruder i personally would prefer a 1.75mm version.
Many filaments are only made in 1.75mm and it needs al lot less extrusion force.
Hi there
I was also having problems with slipping filament now and then. Tried a lot of things to stop it. Finally bought an 8mm stainless hobbed bolt from E3d called Hob Goblin.
It feeds the filament so much better, and so far I have had no slipping at all. The only problem was the length of the stainless rod, which would have been better about 3mm longer. The nyloc nut on the end had to be thinned for my extruder, to get the thread into the nylon.
Worth it though to get rid of the problem.
Peter
