So somethings broken, dont know what it could be, maybe a combination of things?
Finished print looks like this
Bottom first 3-5 layers were good, then went of the rails(notice sides, also wobbly): 
Poor picture of top:
Splitted by the 3-5 layers, one side good other side not so much:
Lots of not so much:
I didn’t manage to get any pictures while printing but got some of the leds, a lot of red lights, dunno if they tell you anything?
Blurry but works: 
Good quality but one wasn’t lit, although it was most of the other time:
Anybody has any clue what it could be? Figured it might be some whacky stuff with my z axis but cant notice anything, it sounds awfully bad though, screetchy. And maybe wanna raise the fillament feed mass some how? Press out some more plastic on the print?
None of the pictures are showing up.
Uploaded mirrors to imgur now, can you see any of the images now?
Hi, firstly set your stepper voltages to 0.55v if you havent already. This cures qute a few problems.
Instructions here k8xxx-3dprinters.crimed.be/w … oses_steps
All my motors are .55, still the same problem, at layer 6 everything goes bananas.
Hi, what temperature are you extruding at?
Can you mark the filament exactly 110mm away from the extruder inlet. Then in the manual controls of repetier feed 100mm (you will need heat on for this). The mark should now be 10mm away from the extruder inlet. Can you tell me the measurement please, it is most likley more than 10mm.
Hi, I will do the measuring asap, meanwhile I’ve lowered the extrusion multiplier from 1.15 to 1 and polished the z rod a bit, this was the result. Getting somewhere now.
Printing PLA at 190c.
Still ugly but at least it looks like a cube.
Measured 110mm up the line, told my printer to extrude 100mm(through octoprint), only extruded 30mm, soo that’s seems like quite a big difference… Any ideas how to handle this? Also here’s a inside pic of the cube, the honeycombs look way lazy.
When in set the temperature to 210 it feeded 50mm instead of 30mm, so where that helped a bit but I dont believe you should print PLA at 210 right?
Hi, the photos defiantly show under extrusion.
210 deg is towards the top end of PLA temperature range, but I have some that needs 210. You can try up to 220 deg if needed.
As for the filament:
The main reason for under extrusion is the working the motor to hard, this means that it can’t turn the number of steps it should (looses steps). This can be, extruder to cool, motor gear too close to the hobbed bolt gear, hobbed bolt nut to tight or hobbed bolt drive slipping on the filament. Check for these first, if not.
In repetier, go to the ‘Manual Control’ tab.
In the upper most grey strip at the very top, on the right hand side is a button called easy mode, if it isn’t red, click it.
You should now have a new box at the top of the pain labelled G-Code.
Now in the grey box at the top is an option ‘Toggle Log’, click this and a new ‘log’ pain will appear at the bottom of the screen.
Now type M501 into the G-Code box and click send. The results will be shown in the Log pain. The line you want is: echo: M92 X??? Y??? Z??? E600.00 (I have adjusted some settings on my printer so replaced the values with ??? to avoid confusion as I can’t remember the defaults).
The value you are interested in is E600.00, this is the number of steps / mm for the extruder.
In theory as you are only extruding 50% of the material required you should change this value to 1200. Or though typically 600 tends to be low for this setting, 1200 would be very high. Generally 700 to 900 seem to be about right.
To change the setting type G92 E!!!.!! (where !!!.!! is the new value) and click send.
To check that the value has changed type M501 and send.
This change will only be remembered until the printer is powered off. If you want to make this permanent then type M500 and send. This will store the values in the EEPROM until edited again.
If you change the E value (say by 10%) and the usesage of filament doesnt change by the same, you have other problems that will not be addressed by changing the E value. If htat is the case I recomend you return the value to 600 and try to fix them first.
So I tried once more, and this is what I got now. Not to chabby…
Will experiment more tomorrow and test your tips.
Hi, thats looks much better. I notice that the colour is different surgesting a different filament. Whilst there may be settings and other issues you can work on at the end of the day temperature is everything and every roll of filament (even the same colour form the same supplier) will behave slightly differently. It’s good to see you are making some progress. You may want to consider changing the default repetier settings for the top layer from 3 to 5, it gives a much better finish. That said with a good setup 3 is fine.
Did some more printing, can’t manage to find that setting to increase feed. But its getting better now anyways, although I believe I have to lower my bed a little.
For some reason my honeycombs still look pretty lazy and my solid infills look really narrow, should they look like that because they are bridging the combs? looks better at top but that 5 layers.
The end results looks a lot better, the bottom looks moshed so I believe I need to raise my bed. It’s also not as brittle any more. But I still think I need more infill?
Also seems like I’m getting a bit uneven infill at each corner, or is that an effect of the already to little infill?
