I’m using just plain glass (3mm thick) onto the alu-heatbed, you should clamp it down on all four corners so the glass touches the alu-plate everywhere.
I’m sure thermal compound will increase the heat-up times drastically but thermal compound tends to be kinda “greasy” which u should avoid onto your printbed at all costs!
In my case I have 3 glass plates I use so I swap them on a daily basis, if there would be thermal compound on the bed it would make a huge mess my girlfriend would love that!
As Marlak’s beds are perfectly flat you can put the glass plate on top without compound. The thermal conduction will be a bit less efficient but it will do. As I said you can print directly on the alu plate but the glass will protect it from scratches and it will be easier to clean. It’s all up to you : both solutions are working.
The ABS print does not (at all) stick to the glass. Temp looks OK, bedheater temp at 110 sets the temp on the glass at 100C. As I just removed (and ruined) the Buildtak, I will order the Dimafix and try again later.
Blue painter tape works good. Dimafix works good also. Started with dimafix a little more then two weeks ago. Creedo in Sweden have it for the once living around here.
Well i got myself 2 cheramic/borosilicat glass plates. But that is because of the solution of the bottom frame I’m using. Also custom sized for a larger Z axis. It is possible to use the original glass plate but it all comes down to the way you decide to make your “sandwich” so to say. It is possible to use hardened glass but due to the way the two glass types is cooled down the flatness is effected. hardened glass is pretty much impossible to get flat. 3-4 mm is recommended thickness. Both you just get from the local glassmaster. Remember to face off the sides and corners if you do this.
Oh forgot on thingiverse you find a Nutt called Cinya. The design for my “sandwich” is there among other things I have done for my printer. ATM I’m working on a CNC to make more improvements to the printer and other projects Im toying with.
[quote=“Marlark”]Dimafix right on it works.[/quote]That’s what I do and it works like a charm.
[quote=“Marlark”]But you have to count in to be able to remove the part from the bed also.[/quote]With Dimafix the part pops up easily when the bed cools down and sticks like hell when hot.
Using Dimafix and lowering the fan speed a little bit, works for me when printing ABS
Configuration I used, using info in this forum topic: the original Vertex glass directly on Marlarks heatbed, without the use of a thermal compound. The PCU is a 15V 500W (Meanwell RSP 500-15) and I am using 1 extruder. Heatbed and extruder draws a total of max 23 A.
[quote=“minitreintje”]It arrived today
Wow what a difference with my old heated bed, so flat :o
Now I’m waiting for the thermistor before I can mount it
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Nice I have about 60 left atm. Goes about 3 a week so far.
Last week was a total bust for me spending the entire week in bed sick as hell. Meaning i wasnt able to send out the 3 heatbeds that was sold during the week as i would have liked. But finally i got them on its way plus one that was sold today Anyway im back on my toes and if someone want a bed there is in stock.
