I have the following problem. I’ve used the method with the folded paper and the Inbus screwdriver to adjust the hight of the bed. When i follow the steps of the topic forst print i can’t finetune the perfect height for the bed. I cant make it look like the photos show. They say to screw it down buy quarter of a turn but after more then 6 steps i cant get it right. Is there an other way to adjust the height of the screws than the folded paper? i think now my bed is standing slight in an angel… At some points the PLA dus stick to the bed and at others points it doesnt. how can i send a photo to show my problem?
First you have to check if you bed is flat. Often it’s bulging in the center (either because the alu plate is bent or because the glass plate is bent by the metallic clips on the borders).
You can use a paper sheet folded once but it’s best to use a feeler gauge (0.2 mm).
I’m going to use the feeler gauge plates of 0.2mm to adjust the height of the bed. If this doesnt get it right i will design a alu support with 4 connections so that i can us a measringclock. This way i think i will get the best results. I have visited a metalworking specialist and he said the bed wasn’t flat becaus of the fact it is punched and not lasercut. When i have to design a new bed i will let it lasercut and i will give an update if this is an better solution.
It might also help to increase your first layer height. If you do this, when printing at .1 thickness, your bed needs to be within .05 calibrated. I normally print my first layer at .2 or .3 mm.
I always start to callibrate the nozzle right above the adjustment screws using two layers of A4 (.2mm)
(what i do, is i auto-home the printer, hit the reset button so the motors don’t have their holding-current and gently move the carriage by hand above the adjustment screws, i just eyeball it, you could do this with X/Y movement, but i prefer this, since it’s faster). after this i go to the outer limits and center to ‘average’ the differences.
[quote=“Jan Lauwers”]I’m going to use the feeler gauge plates of 0.2mm to adjust the height of the bed. If this doesnt get it right i will design a alu support with 4 connections so that i can us a measringclock. This way i think i will get the best results. I have visited a metalworking specialist and he said the bed wasn’t flat becaus of the fact it is punched and not lasercut. When i have to design a new bed i will let it lasercut and i will give an update if this is an better solution.
Thanks for the advice
Jan[/quote]
This is what I use to level the bed.
I glued a glassplate to the stock PCB and put some compression springs under the adjustment knobs under the bed.
I get it leveled within 0.1 mm
For calibration of the Z-axis I use the “piece of paper” method or a 0.2 mm feeler gauge.
