Looks realy nice. Think im going to order one or two of those. 
// Marlark
I have designed a spacer to make sure the PRINTinZ flexible build plate can be firmly installed on the Vertex build construction using the original bed clips.
I would appreciate it if you could print them and install it.
Based on your findings I can update the spacer when and if necessary so as all of us that decide to use this build plate can benefit from this effort.
Does that sound acceptable?
The spacer can be found here:- thingiverse.com/thing:758308
Thank you!
Sorry I forgot to reply on this one… I have a MK3 heatbed installed and removed the original bed… So my configuration is different …
So for me it has no use as I have a cork insulation at the bottom… so my total thickness is off quite a bit…
[quote=“Marlark”]Looks realy nice. Think im going to order one or two of those.
// Marlark[/quote]
Good choice and curious about your findings if you follow this path!
No need to apologise! Your feedback is much appreciated.
I have also ordered a PRINTinZ flexible build plate and I will install it with the spacer I designed and provide feedback too!
thanks
What about if you print much larger objects that touch the printbed much more?
Answer:
According to my tests d-c-fix® velour works very well with larger prints too…
This my theory why the velour surface works so well;
The fine hair/fibre in the surface of the velour allow the object kind of float in the air. On the other surfaces the object is attached firmly to the surface and this causes tension between the object and the print surface when the print material shrinks when it cools down. When the tension is too high the object snaps off from the edges and the object gets loosen. Some reduces the cooling of the object initial layers with heated beds. This is the same phenomenon as when two different metals are glued to each other and when temperature changes the other metal shrinks or expands more and the bi-metal bar starts to bend.
Now when the objects “floats” over the hair/fibre of the velour the first layers can freely shrink and move cause the velour hair/fibre allows small movement that is why there will be no tension between the build surface and the object. As you have noticed the convex warping happens always between the surface and object not usually anywhere else.
So this is just my theory for the velour surface material that I have tested…so there is no deeper scientific facts for this assumption.
[quote=“rrekwa”]Well I have to disagree for unless I have done my calculations incorrectly then assuming the print head assembly weighs 300gms the deflection one would predict from a single centre loaded 8mm round steel beam with rigid supports and a span of 26mm would be 0.029mm.
[/quote]
It’s not beams themselves. It’s the supports, they are not rigid…
I’ve already printed about 3kg. of PLA and the BuildTak just sticks great. My only problem is that I cannot get it off the buildplate easily. Already damaged 3 BuildTak sheets. The characteristics of the BuildTak are somewhat identical to your solution but when printing arches with a diameter of 16+ cm keeping the object on the buildplate is becoming a challenge when using tape. I’m done with using tape, glue, hairspray, BuildTak or anything you have to manually stick to the glass plate. I just don’t want to fiddle anymore with this process. I just want a buildplate that needs to be handled like the glass plate without using anything else at all. This PRINTinZ flexible buildplate is just 3 times the cost of a single BuildTak sheet but according lots of reviews it seems to last much much longer. It does not even need any additional tool (e.g. cutter knife) to remove the objects. This sounds to me like the cheapest solution in the long run! Once I receive the buildplate and after testing it I will post feedback about my findings.
I have tried also buildtak but it really does not have the same principle…And I have had a lot of fails with buildtak even with new buildtak
but I have had none with d-c-fix…
Go to some hobby store and buy piece of d-c-fix velour and test it. It will cost you around 1€! There is nothing to loose.
I think if printing surface price is more than 3€ it is too much and commercial build surfaces are way too over-priced.
The best results, printing and removing objects, I had was with my previous printer. I printed straight onto a heated glass plate. The only problem for me was that it takes time to get the glass plate heated and also to let it cool down after printing to remove the object. It allowed me to print without using support. Using any kind of tape deformed my objects if they stayed on the print bed at all. I decided to have a printer setup without a heated bed nor do I want to mess with installing and removing any kind of tape, heat resistant or not, and keep on re-adjusting the nozzle distance. I just don’t want to be bothered with that anymore. I only want to design objects and quickly (test)print them. Whether my choice for the PRINTinZ plate is the right one for my needs is to be seen but according reviews it will be. So we both found a solution that suits our needs and providing feedback is certainly helpful for others so as they can use something that suits them.
Got my PrintinZ plate today so going to test it later today i think. Good timeing considering my buildtak is starting already to get damaged.
Looks like the spacer you made mhensen is a litle to large to the buildplate to handle even if i turn it 45 degree. Could probably be done standing up but need some support structure for that i gues then. Think im going to make my own spacer that is not that large it dont need to be. is enouph if they are small once for the underside of the alu plate.
// Marlark
If I remember correctly I printed the spacer at 40 degrees. The reason why I made it so long is that I did not want the spacer to twist/turn when opening the front glass clips. The connection with the back glass clip bolt hole will prevent this. If you have a better version then please share it with all of us. BTW how are your PRINTinZ plate print results?
I figured that when i started on my own design for it. What i did was use the holes in the alu plate to prevent that from happening. basecly i have made 2 dif types one that is pritty mych strait for 2 of them and 2 that is in a 45% angle but they are not more then 15x30 mm and at the alu plate guide i use a 4 mm raise. Turned out to work fairly good also. only real diff is 2 more things to print and less filament use 
Other then that i have done 2 prints on the printinz and i have to say it seam to work good im quite happy with it.
// Marlark
@ Vertex-User
Wondering the heat resistance of the D-C-Fix you’ve been using.
How does the material behave, cause there is a 190C ( or higher), heated nozzle floating close to the velours hairs.
Are you still happy with the solution as described in your post?
I’am looking for a better solution than Buildtak. Already damaged 2 pieces and the third started to wear out also.
Thanks in advance.
@printinz owners
thanks for the feedback about the plate, just ordered one because i have so much problems removing my prints from the buildtak… .
i noticed that my aluminium plate is uneven too.
Is this an issue when mounting the printinz plate?
What nozzle temperatures are you using for PLA?
Is a .2mm nozzle plate distance ok?
Thanks!
In my case have found that when you do the first layer do it in 5-10C degrees lower then what you normaly do. Reason is that if you burn on to high on the first layer it can get a litle to much adhesion to the plate. Especualy in the begining when you start on printing do that and then start experimenting (Printinz recomend this themself). Myself i use about 195-200 on first layer and 205-210 on the rest with the PLA i use. I have found out that if i print small items with 210 on first layer it is a pain in the … to remove it due to to strong adhesion. Tried down to 190 but i found that it is sort of a borderline for it to get loose of it’s own depending on the item design against the buildplate.
When it comes to the uneven alu plate. Yes it is as always best to have a flat or concave (negative curve) on the plate. Convex plate (Possitive curve) is not a good idea due to the way you hold the plate on it’s place on the plate’s corners and sides wish means not so good prints as you might imagine. But that is not a good thing with the glas/buildtak plate eather.
// Marlark
I’m still waiting for my PRINTinZ plate to arrive.
I have a stupid question. How do you setup the first layer to print at a different temperature compared to all remaining layers? I’m using Repetier-Host V1.0.6. I know how to print different layer heights but I don’t seem to be able to figure out how to change the temperature settings!
Can you point me in the right direction?
I am not shure exactly with repetier … i use Simplify3D myself and it is very simple there … I am guesing you have to set it in Gcode maybe with M104 or M109 i think it is.
Basecly edit it in the G-code editor at the right place after slicing “M109 T0 S200” T0 is the first extruder T1 is second. 200 is the temp you want to set. PS M109 have a wait to temp function to it. So it waits until temp is reached before going on.
In Simplify3D you only need to tell it in a list what temps you want to use at what layer wish is very handy
// Marlark
I’m a bit late to the party but I wanted to chime in to corroborate Biscuitlad, et. al. on the “sagging” issue. I can’t verify if the rods sag or not, but I CAN verify that my build plate (original glass) is currenltly unclipped from the aluminum holder and instead attached by 4 small squares of double-sided foam tape at the corners. No force whatsoever from the aluminum holder is transmitted to the glass. Yet the extruder, at proper height, does lightly scrape the center region of the glass.
Thinking the glass had been warped by its tenure clipped to the metal holder, I FLIPPED OVER the glass onto new foam tape squares. Instead of the problem being inverse (the glass “dome” is now a “bowl”), the extruder scraped the same area in the same way as before.
In my case, I’ve just learned to adjust the extruder height to a happy medium and squirt a thick first layer to help adhesion of large prints, but I just wanted to say the problem definitely exists.