[quote=“2stimpy”]This is what i have ordered.
reichelt.de/index.html?&ACTION=446&LA=446[/quote]
Thanks for the respons but the link does not work
On page 4 of this post, you have ALL links and stuff needed for the additional power supply.
Just read and enjoy
[quote=“2stimpy”]Oh, sorry.
maybe now.
reichelt.de/Schaltnetzteile- … T+MW100-24[/quote]
Since I like being overpowered, and not having to bother with cooling the supply, I bought this: SNT MW-SP320-24 :: Switching power supply, closed, 24V / 13A / 320W
I e-mailed them about the ready-made mosfet controller once I read about it here on the forum. I asked for a picture and more info on the size etc… Still no answer. I could risk it and just order it, but not getting feedback makes me worry about the service :-/
I ordered a heated bed and they sent it the same day, so the service doesn’t seem all too sloppy.
I am now waiting for the bed t reach 110c, i have been sitting here now for 30 minutes and its at 103c.
I doubt if i reach the 110c.
So i need to upgrade the bed even more with a new heated plate, and a new power supply.
This simply can’t handle the job.
[quote=“2stimpy”]I am now waiting for the bed t reach 110c, i have been sitting here now for 30 minutes and its at 103c.
I doubt if i reach the 110c.
So i need to upgrade the bed even more with a new heated plate, and a new power supply.
This simply can’t handle the job.[/quote]
Are you using the 100 W MeanWell supply? I get my stock K8200 bed up to at least 115 C with my 320 W supply on 24 V (in a cabinet). You might be maxing out the supply.
Changing the PCB bed to one with proper support for 24 V will of course make it easier to reach higher temps. Even more so by getting the M3a alu bed and using the 12 V terminals with 24 V (as instructed by the supplier); which supposedly makes it possible to reach more than 100 C in about 2 minutes.
Hi magu,
the cabinet is probably the important part there, since it reduces airflow and thus also the loss of heat.
Second option: you got a heatbed with low resistance, which would result in a couple of watts more heating power. Did you measure the resistance? Here it’s 5.7 Ω at room temperature.
Cheers,
kuraasu
[quote=“kuraasu”] Did you measure the resistance? Here it’s 5.7 Ω at room temperature.
[/quote]
I’ve just received my Mk3 alu bed and plan on installing it next week. Can measure the resistance on the old one by then.
[quote=“magu”][quote=“2stimpy”]I am now waiting for the bed t reach 110c, i have been sitting here now for 30 minutes and its at 103c.
I doubt if i reach the 110c.
So i need to upgrade the bed even more with a new heated plate, and a new power supply.
This simply can’t handle the job.[/quote]
Are you using the 100 W MeanWell supply? I get my stock K8200 bed up to at least 115 C with my 320 W supply on 24 V (in a cabinet). You might be maxing out the supply.
Changing the PCB bed to one with proper support for 24 V will of course make it easier to reach higher temps. Even more so by getting the M3a alu bed and using the 12 V terminals with 24 V (as instructed by the supplier); which supposedly makes it possible to reach more than 100 C in about 2 minutes.[/quote]
Jip, using the 100 w power supply.
I am also thinking about installing a new heatbed, but i think this also means buying a new power supply because than 4,5 amp is not enough i think.
As you can see in my other post, i also have my printer in a box.(still need to fit the door though.
I have been searching for info on the power supply needed for the MK3 heatbed.
My knowledge on electronics does not reach that far.
Will it work if i use my 100w 4,5 amp 24v power supply on this heatbed and benefit faster heating!
Hi 2stimpy,
just to be sure - you are talking about the Mk3 dual power alu heatbed, right?
100 W is not enough either way. In the 24 V connection scheme, the bed has (depending on its actual resistance) around 100 to 120 W heating power. You should add a few percent to that value though, so that the supply does not run at 100% output all the time.
Using 24 V on the 12 V terminals gives a factor of four for the power, so either more than 400 W are needed, or a power supply that is truly and permanently short-circuit proof (apart from a relay that can handle the current).
Cheers,
kuraasu
It is indeed the dual power mk3 heatbed.
I am going to look for an other power supply than. I do want to use the maximum out of it.
Now i have to wait 25 minutes for the heatbed to reach 100 degrees, it doesn’t even reach 110.
I understand that i also have to find a solution for the switch/relais, because the print i made from the schematic earlier in this topic wont do the job.
But if there is a need of bigger switch and bigger power supply, than i also should use thicker wires i think.
I dont think the standard ribbon cable can handle the higher currents.
Something like this should be able to do the job i think.
ebay.com/itm/GRS-24V-20A-500 … 1140986031
or this
2stimpy, how did mount the mk3 heat bed on K8200?
I haven’t yet.
Yesterday i got my new heatbed but i want to gather all the needed parts before i start building again.
I still need to decide on the power supply, switch and how to do the wiring.
Today I received my parts from reprap.me: Cork insulator (which broke during packaging/shipping) and the MOSFET controller. I made a picture of the controller so you can see:
This weekend I will try to install it to my k8200, normally I will find the way it has to be wired somewhere in this thread
@2stimpy, I will also have to buy another power supply, the one I have laying around might not be powerful enough
It is a nice little switch.
Power from the external supply to the in side, connect the heatbed on the out side.
The little 2 pins are for the signal from the controller. That would be the the wires that are now connected to your heatbed.
I contacted them and they told me the fet used on the print would be capable to handle up to 30v and 76 amps
They gave me this link.
labitat.dk/wiki/Power_Expander
[quote=“2stimpy”]It is a nice little switch.
Power from the external supply to the in side, connect the heatbed on the out side.
The little 2 pins are for the signal from the controller. That would be the the wires that are now connected to your heatbed.
I contacted them and they told me the fet used on the print would be capable to handle up to 30v and 76 amps
They gave me this link.
labitat.dk/wiki/Power_Expander[/quote]
Oh ok, quite simple then 
Do I have to change the wires that are currently used (ribbon cable) or should it work?