Description says
This setting is rarely used, however should the print show signs of not having enough material after travel moves then it may be useful to add a small amount of additional material.
Description says
This setting is rarely used, however should the print show signs of not having enough material after travel moves then it may be useful to add a small amount of additional material.
br
Johann[/quote]
Yes, thats it. I think I will experiment with the retraction length to see if it will help with the blobs.
Tried with value set to 0 and printed the lamp top again
The good news is the outer surface between the slots got better
The bad news - there is once sign of missing support
material and still blobs inside. So after all i think it’s not the solution
It’s currently sleeping - please don’t wake it
I will try it again with another setting - after i looked into some more
internet research
[quote=“johann”]Tried with value set to 0
[/quote]
For the retraction value? I think you need to set it to perhaps 5 or 6. I don’t know if it is in mm but the person (some time ago but I think on this forum) said since he made a new construction for the extruder with much less volume he could set it to 0. With the original he had to set it higher.
I have read somewhere else that lifting the z axis also helped and that the expected quality loss from the movement didn’t show.
[quote=“johann”]Don’t know if it’s only Slic3r RC2 feature[/quote]no, it’s available in all the later versions I’ve seen.
Cartman, the ‘value set to 0’ refered to the “Extra length on restart”, not the retraction length itself. With retract set to zero there would be no reduction of the pressure inside the melting chamber, and the nozzle would ooze all the time. In contrast, the extra length on restart can be set to zero quite safely, since it’s only needed if you have gaps in your print after retract.
One with z-axis lift (Slic3r - Printer Settings - Extruder 1 - Lift Z)
Value was set from 0 to 0.1 mm
No good results - more z axis ripples on surface (spare you the picture)
Next test was with slowing down speed (read in another forum)
The surface looks more smooth as the x/y motor steps get slower
Value can be changed in RepetierHost - Manual Control - in the right middle
below the arrows and power button is the Speed Multiply - Feedrate
Instead of 100 set to 50.
Whipe while retracting was also enable as i send picture in last post
Bad news - besides this doubles print time
i got “brown out reset” for 25% but 50% worked. I seems to need more power
although motor turns slower - longer switch on time for PWM ?
(an additional PSU solved this issue for 25% but the time i didn’t want to spend
so used 50%)
I have NOT found the turn off switch for blobs yeat, but at least i can look
at the part (only 6 cm high) without thinking immediatly how ugly …
Maybe someone else knows further tricks
Otherwise it was my last print of this thing (i have 6 prints now)
So is the z axis wobble that you guys are fixing the reason my prints have horizontal ridges and grooves or is there more to it like tuning the temp, speed, etc?
I’ve been tinkering with this printer, since I got it, trying to improve the results. It seems like it is impossible to totally get rid of these ridges and grooves. I’m not sure when to conclude it is as good as it is going to get.
I’d ask people to post pictures of their best prints, but it is hard to tell from pictures how smooth the surface actually is. So, if anybody has any ideas on how to express in words what is possible, I’d love to know.
looks for me like a z-axis problem from the initial setup?
The z-axis motor holder helped a lot and i’m not using the filament spool
sitting on top but put beside the printer (topic started with this)
For 700€ i’m not complaining - much (the PSU uiui) the rest can be tuned
Btw. i also found my x carriage bent because the support parts are not designed right.
Maybe i open another topic for this - i guess Velleman will not care
i tried another PLA - white - and it works better but
there is also another issue special for this object
This is the slicer - used Slic3r1.0.0RC2
It does way to many useless travel moves
Then i ckecked on Cura
Compare what’s going on with the green line travel moves - it’s completle rubbish
what slic3r is doing. Not only is the slicing very slow also the outcome is bad
With Cura you can slice almost realtime and most object from thingiverse can be
done. Slic3r has problems with manifold and generates wrong results
Also i don’t get the extruding PLA value right with slic3r especially when using higher resultion
like 0,1mm for layer height. I put in PLA diameter and extrusion multiplier and results
are bad as usual.
I switched to simple object to get some more test prints (0,1 mm)
From now i will not user slic3r anymore instead save gcode with Cura and load with Repetier-Host
afterwards.
[quote=“johann”]Also i don’t get the extruding PLA value right with slic3r especially when using higher resultion
like 0,1mm for layer height.[/quote]
What’s your set extrusion width in Slic3r?
I have to agree. Many object slice just fine in Slic3r and give good results, but Ive been experimenting with Cura for a few days, and its massively faster, easier to use and the results are visibly better.
With Cura i don’t get blob monsters anymore
Tried a K8200bot today - not so easy as i thought
With white PLA it would look better. And it needs a brim because it went a little /
Anyway first try - i’m just wondering about the pattern like it’s x/y motor resolution
on the surface. For larger straight surfaces this does not happen …
the surface looks a bit like the PLA is getting too hot because the time per layer is too short (due to the small dimensions of the robot). Was that the only object in that print job, or did you print additional objects at the same time, effectively prolonging the time spent on each layer?
