[quote=“Edurobot”]I cannot explain how to install Octopi from a PC, only from a Mac. And you’ll need to correct my bad English! :-)[/quote]I’ll do the PC part. And your English will do :).
Still on the 70cm Bowden but changed the extruders to thingiverse.com/thing:719709 with some minor adjustments. and replaced the gears to Mk8 gears and having the Bowden tube up to the gear!!
First calibration object … very flexy stuff but really need to slow down printing…
Further calibration is needed to be comfortable printing this stuff!!
Looks a nice set up. I would be interested to know how you adjust the height of the nozzles to make sure that they are both the same distance from the bed and what you are using to cool the printed object, or do you no need to cool it with ninaflex?
[quote=“rrekwa”]…what you are using to cool the printed object, or do you no need to cool it with ninaflex?[/quote]I print filaflex with the fan at 50%, speeds slowed right down to 15mm/s, possibly 20 if you go hotter than 240.
I’m wanting to make a little plastic tube extension for my extruder to stop the occasional buckle. But other than that filaflex prints quite nicely, directly onto the buildTak. Can be quite difficult to get off, but I can print 0.7mm thin walls with no problems. Quite impressed, TBH:
I finally got my K8400 working properly now. So been doing some of your guys mods. A power butten + power socket, Z axis upper bearing mod(helped a lot with my Z.), belt tensioner and i have a MK3 heated bed + 2x E3D-v6 hotends on my way that i soon will install.
I have also mounted the IKEA Dioder RGB lights to my Vertex. I was thinking about making a circuit with components i had laying around so i can control them like the K8403 RGB kit with M-codes. But after a close inspection of the IKEA control circuit i think i can just use it with some small “modifications”.
Been cutting away whats not needed and its ready for the Vertex:
Today i did wire up the chopped pcb. Also made an mini enclosure for so its stored nice under the K8400. All i need to do now is solder on some headers to the main board. I reused the pcb connectors from the IKEA Dioder pcb.
Did finish the IKEA Dioder hack today. Shortened the wires from the ledstrips, made a cable from the 5pin IKEA connector to the 12pin on the Velleman board. Only one thing to look out for is the color coding on the 5pin cable. BLUE wire is signal RED, GREEN is BLUE and RED is GREEN . Anyhow now i can control the colors both in the menu and with gcode. Only thing used is one screw and everything is reused from the IKEA Dioder set
Here are some from my early mods.
This one is pretty trivial: as I was fed up hurting my fingers while adjusting the printing bed, I designed a slightly different screw holder
Then, instead of installing LED strips, I installed one single 5mm LED which lights a spot around the extruder area.
Next picture illustrates the LED spot light. See the LED sleeved in a shrinking tube. It also features an air duct which blows fresh air right on the printed area.
