My bottle is done, fitted quite tight, but fitted.
Bottle is finished, printed with Cura.
Slowly the flow rate from 100 to 107
but the print is ugly, and there are blobs, and strings inside the bottle.
The cap doesn’t fit.
The prints are better in slic3r
Canyou post a pic please?
Yes, i have pictures, but i don’t know how to post them.
Can i upload to the forum?
I also have ordered a new E3D V6 hotend, hope it wil arrive tomorrow.
Maybe my print will then get better 
[quote=“dutchronnie”]Yes, i have pictures, but i don’t know how to post them.
Can i upload to the forum?[/quote]
For posting pictures upload them to a picture hoting service or dropbox and insert a link here
enclosed in Img tags.
[quote=“dutchronnie”]
I also have ordered a new E3D V6 hotend, hope it wil arrive tomorrow.
Maybe my print will then get better :-)[/quote]
I’m absolutely sure you will! 
The white one is sliced with Cura, and the yellow one with Slic3r
The white one is ugly with a lot of blobs and is not smooth.
The yellow one is smooth, the cap fits but there a holes on the side of the bottle.
[quote=“dutchronnie”]https://www.dropbox.com/s/20vp0k9fgaofhy4/bottle-1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0fwa3ct6s5w35k3/bottle-2.jpg?dl=0
The white one is sliced with Cura, and the yellow one with Slic3r
The white one is ugly with a lot of blobs and is not smooth.
The yellow one is smooth, the cap fits but there a holes on the side of the bottle.[/quote]
Ronnie, if you include the links in “” and exchange the www with dl
like so : “”
They directly appear. 
Here is mine, cura 0.2mm.
The slings at the upper end are due to the filament , was a bad (impure) spool so i use it up now for test prints.
cheers,
Christian
Thanks, i have changed the links.
I hope to receive the E3D V6 hotend today.
But i understand that i have to print a mount for the hotend to fix it to the k8200.
I have downloaded the parts from this link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:349095/#files
But there a a lot of parts, and no discription.
What parts do i need for the K8200 with E3D V6 ?
is it: K8200-E3Dv6.stl
or K8200-E3Dv6-groove.stl
or K8200-E3Dv6-fan.stl
or all the parts, it its not clear for me.
i also see a spacer, where do i need this part?
You need only 2 pieces :
K8200-E3Dv6.stl
Spacer.stl
The other parts are provided in case you cannot print the whole mount in one piece (it’s the same design split in 2). Normally the mount prints very well as a whole.
The hotend is not arrived today.
hopefully tomorrow.
So i can print this evening the parts for the hotend.
Ichbinsnur:
When i study the photo’s i find the yellow one from me looking better then the one from you.
The surface is very smooth, only the holes in my print are disapointing.
The print from you looks on other prints from me also sliced with Cura.
Is it possible that slic3r produces better prints then Cura?
Cura is on the other hand much faster dan Slic3R
Hi, for what it’s worth printed the item tonight & lid doesn’t fit (your not on your own). The lid will push on as far as the thread with light force then locks up when you try to twist (settings at the end of the post).
Measured:
Jar: across flats & corners of profile, as well as 6 points around thread & internal (corresponding with the flats & corners) non was more than 0.09mm different.
Lid: across flats & corners of profile, as well as 6 points around internal (corresponding with the flats & corners) non was more than 0.08mm different.
Both: the flat / lead before the start of the thread, 6 points (external jar & internal lid) the lid was 0.04mm smaller than the jar (or the other way round if you like).
Printed using the standard 8200 hot end (0.5 nozzle) sliced with Repetier V1.0.6
I haven’t checked the drawing dimentions, my lid came out at 32.04, 31.96 & 32.00mm accross the flats for reference.
; avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
; bed_size = 200,200
; bed_temperature = 50
; bridge_acceleration = 0
; bridge_fan_speed = 100
; bridge_flow_ratio = 1
; brim_width = 0
; complete_objects = 0
; cooling = 1
; default_acceleration = 0
; disable_fan_first_layers = 3
; duplicate_distance = 6
; end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 ; home X axis\nM84 ; disable motors
; external_perimeters_first = 0
; extruder_clearance_height = 20
; extruder_clearance_radius = 20
; extruder_offset = 0x0
; extrusion_axis = E
; extrusion_multiplier = 1.1
; fan_always_on = 0
; fan_below_layer_time = 60
; filament_diameter = 2.8
; first_layer_acceleration = 0
; first_layer_bed_temperature = 50
; first_layer_extrusion_width = 110%
; first_layer_speed = 50%
; first_layer_temperature = 210
; g0 = 0
; gcode_arcs = 0
; gcode_comments = 0
; gcode_flavor = reprap
; infill_acceleration = 0
; infill_first = 0
; layer_gcode =
; max_fan_speed = 100
; min_fan_speed = 50
; min_print_speed = 30
; min_skirt_length = 5
; notes =
; nozzle_diameter = 0.5
; only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 0
; ooze_prevention = 0
; output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
; perimeter_acceleration = 0
; post_process =
; print_center = 62,99
; resolution = 0
; retract_before_travel = 2
; retract_layer_change = 0
; retract_length = 3
; retract_length_toolchange = 10
; retract_lift = 0
; retract_restart_extra = 0.1
; retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
; retract_speed = 65
; skirt_distance = 10
; skirt_height = 1
; skirts = 2
; slowdown_below_layer_time = 5
; spiral_vase = 0
; standby_temperature_delta = -5
; start_gcode = \n G28 ; home all axes\n\nG90 ; use absolute coordinates\n\nG21 ; set units to millimeters\n\nG92 E0\n\nM82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion\n\nM109 S190 ; wait for temperature to be reached\n\nG1 E10 F400 ; prime the nozzle\nG1 X0 Y0\nG1 Z0\nG21 ; set units to millimeters\nM82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion\nM109 S190 ; wait for temperature to be reached\nG1 E10 F400 ; prime the nozzle
; temperature = 190
; threads = 2
; toolchange_gcode =
; travel_speed = 200
; use_firmware_retraction = 0
; use_relative_e_distances = 0
; vibration_limit = 0
; wipe = 0
; z_offset = 0
; dont_support_bridges = 1
; extrusion_width = 100%
; first_layer_height = 0.35
; infill_only_where_needed = 0
; interface_shells = 0
; layer_height = 0.25
; raft_layers = 0
; seam_position = aligned
; support_material = 0
; support_material_angle = 0
; support_material_enforce_layers = 10
; support_material_extruder = 1
; support_material_extrusion_width = 0
; support_material_interface_extruder = 1
; support_material_interface_layers = 0
; support_material_interface_spacing = 0
; support_material_interface_speed = 100%
; support_material_pattern = rectilinear
; support_material_spacing = 2.5
; support_material_speed = 50
; support_material_threshold = 46
; bottom_solid_layers = 3
; bridge_speed = 60
; external_perimeter_speed = 95%
; extra_perimeters = 1
; fill_angle = 45
; fill_density = 0%
; fill_pattern = honeycomb
; gap_fill_speed = 50
; infill_every_layers = 1
; infill_extruder = 1
; infill_extrusion_width = 170%
; infill_speed = 50
; overhangs = 1
; perimeter_extruder = 1
; perimeter_extrusion_width = 170%
; perimeter_speed = 30
; perimeters = 2
; small_perimeter_speed = 30
; solid_fill_pattern = rectilinear
; solid_infill_below_area = 10
; solid_infill_every_layers = 0
; solid_infill_extrusion_width = 110%
; solid_infill_speed = 50
; thin_walls = 1
; top_infill_extrusion_width = 110%
; top_solid_infill_speed = 50
; top_solid_layers = 3
[quote=“dutchronnie”]The hotend is not arrived today.
hopefully tomorrow.
So i can print this evening the parts for the hotend.
Ichbinsnur:
When i study the photo’s i find the yellow one from me looking better then the one from you.
The surface is very smooth, only the holes in my print are disapointing.
The print from you looks on other prints from me also sliced with Cura.
Is it possible that slic3r produces better prints then Cura?
Cura is on the other hand much faster dan Slic3R[/quote]
Can seriously be.
Some objects, especially “twistes” ones thend to slice better with slic3r and some go better in cura engine.
But, as i said, i printed it with a spool of “known bad” filament, so the outbursted strings of filament on the upper side are due to that.
Slicing can sometime be weird.
I’ve tried to slice 2 half wings side by side with Slic3r and one half wing sliced fine and the second one sliced as 2 or 3 small circular layers like a blob. The same file sliced normally with Cura.
I am starting al over again, now with a new hotend, the E3D V6
just installed.
is it true that this hotend uses the same themistor as the standard k8200?
in my fimeware i have this code:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 5
and the recomidation on the E3D site is to use option 5
Then i think i don’t have to change any setting
Installed the new hotend, and didn’t change any setting in the firmware.
I have used the stock heater and a the new thermistor.
The first print was the bottle with cap, sliced in slic3r.
only changed the nozzle diameter from 0.5 to 0.4
And this was the result:
Almost perfect bottle, looks very good, only a few strange spots on the surface.
The cap fits perfect.
i have changed after the print the retract distance from 4mm to 1mm, maybe it can shorter
[quote=“dutchronnie”]Installed the new hotend, and didn’t change any setting in the firmware.
I have used the stock heater and a the new thermistor.
The first print was the bottle with cap, sliced in slic3r.
only changed the nozzle diameter from 0.5 to 0.4
And this was the result:
Almost perfect bottle, looks very good, only a few strange spots on the surface.
The cap fits perfect.
i have changed after the print the retract distance from 4mm to 1mm, maybe it can shorter[/quote]
Just like i thought.
Happy printing!
I was a little bit to fast with saying that it was alright.
It was luck, that the first print was good
Today i wated to print something else, i have tried more than 30 times to start a print but alway it goes wrong on the first layer.
sometimes with the skirt, other times with the print itself.
when the print starts, there is a little drip on the glass plate, the next time the nozzle goes near that drip, the nozzle toch the drip, and rips al the filament from the glasplate.
I have tried many settings, but i can get rid of it.
[quote=“dutchronnie”]I was a little bit to fast with saying that it was alright.
It was luck, that the first print was good
Today i wated to print something else, i have tried more than 30 times to start a print but alway it goes wrong on the first layer.
sometimes with the skirt, other times with the print itself.
when the print starts, there is a little drip on the glass plate, the next time the nozzle goes near that drip, the nozzle toch the drip, and rips al the filament from the glasplate.
I have tried many settings, but i can get rid of it.[/quote]
Do you print PLA on a cold printbed?
No i print on a heatbed of 50 degrees.
But after a long time, i think i had the temperature to low for the hotend.
i was using a temp of 195 degrees, now i use 220 degrees, and everything goes well.
[quote=“dutchronnie”]No i print on a heatbed of 50 degrees.
But after a long time, i think i had the temperature to low for the hotend.
i was using a temp of 195 degrees, now i use 220 degrees, and everything goes well.[/quote]
Nice to hear you got it working.
Happy printing!