New MK3 alu heatbed – too much current for original PSU?

My new mk3 heatbed arrived a while ago and the new 24v 600 w psu had been here also for a while.
This weekend i took the time to install the heatbed together with the printed cable chain and thicker wires.
It took a while before i had the 16 chain links printed. First i printed them in pla, sadly something didn’t go well because they crack when i try to snap them together. They did look good though.
So printed them again in abs.

I installed thicker wires, and i am currently printing.
Coming from 26c it hit the 50c in 36 seconds. 100c was reached at 2 minutes and 17 seconds.
He started printing after 2 and a half minute.
Man that thing heats fast now.

I am really happy with the results.
The heating of the hotend to 250c and heatbed to 100c can be done at the same time and they are almost at the same time at the target temperature.

I have also put the 4 mounting screws back without the springs.
The construction is more stable this way. It is a little more work to adjust the bed to be level but with this alu heatbed it is much easier than the original one. Once the bed is level, i don’t have to fiddle with it anymore.

This upgrade is defenatly wort the bucks, i hate to wait and now i don’t have to anymore.

Hey, 2stimpy could you contact me at Skype (Exopex) because i have questions about your very impressive modifications at your K8200 :slight_smile: thanks :wink:

I am sorry, i haven’t got anything like skype.
you can contact me through my website and we can keep in contact over mail.
arnoldscustoms.com

[quote=“2stimpy”]I am sorry, i haven’t got anything like skype.
you can contact me through my website and we can keep in contact over mail.
arnoldscustoms.com[/quote]

Your Mailbox is unavailable :confused: now i write it down here :slight_smile:
That’s the email text:
Hello & Thanks 2stimpy for your fast Reply :slight_smile: I wanted to know if you could give me your very niice modded / used parts of your custom k8200 as 3D-Files / upload them for me :wink: that would be very niice of you :slight_smile: I would like to mod my k8200 and I think your k8200 is the best Printer at the K8200-Forum that’s the matter for likeing your 3D-Files. I promise that I won’t upload your 3D-Files anywhere. But I understand that you maybe don’t trust me :confused: or you won’t like to share your work with me :confused: that’s ok :slight_smile: If not you could maybe put all of your used Parts / 3D-Files together for me and put them into a folder. If you upload them you could protect them with a given password and send it to my email (exopex@web.de) Thanks!! :wink:
Sry for my bad english + wishes from Germany,
Exopex :slight_smile:

Hey all,

So, I’m looking for a new bed for my printer… I see some people using the MK3. It looks like i’ll need the mounting kit to work with the 8200. I also saw some talk about having to drill holes. Did anyone document the steps to get this to work, including how to wire it?

Thanks!

~Doc

Got my MK3 bed today and i have not printed anything yet but i must say i am already in love with this bed :slight_smile:

Running on 12V lines with separate 15V 350W supply and it peaks in the beginning at 195W then it runs arround 170W


Volts

Amps

I almost did my install as doublehelix but i skipped the acrylic for now, the bed is exactly the same size as the original alu frame and i managed to mount it with new holes in the corners.

note that the springs and acrylic are part of the optional prusa mountkit, for power i used this http://reprap.me/heatbed/power-expander.html

Duragz,

So, you did have to drill holes in the new plate?

No i have drilled in the original bed base in the corners, the holes in the new bed are the standard ones, if you use the acrylic plate under you can drill in that instead.

i have a plan to change this somewhat, use the cork heatshield between the base and bed to make a fit mount, the use the springs in the original level screws instead on the top knob.
This requires more modification to the base though because you need to cut out a portion for the cable mount to the bed.

Got it, thanks!

I really like the concept of the leveling screws with the springs… I think there might be a better way to do this tho. I think i need to buy one of these and start working on it.

~Doc

My final MK3 bed installation is done, i replaced the original bed base with the acrylic.

Attached the acrylic base to the sledge and then the heatbed with the level springs.

18AWG was to small so had to change to larger cables.

Hey, I’m going to buy the mk3a alu bed and I’m thinking about just plugging it into my 12 v 350 w computer power supply. Obviously through a relay that can handle enough current and with a suppression diode so there’s no back current. Would this work? Anybody who got experience running it on 12 v and if it’s able to print ABS on?

Bindie

It should work as you described.
I have my stock heatbed on my k8200 running on 24v over a relay solution for months now.

The mkII draws about 10-12 Amps, if your ATX can handle that on the 12 v rail you should bee good.

cheers,

Christian

Awesome, thanks.