Hello!
Can you say me how long did it take to build the printer?
I’m going to build the printer in my final examination of my mechatroniker education!
greetz Marcel M. from Germany
hello,
i estimate the build took me +/- 16 hours, but the second time (or when you are a fast builder) it would probably take me about 8 to 10 hours
gr
Marco
The replacement pulley arrived 
Thanks
With the new pulley movement was a lot smoother. Although I still had some vibration issues so I decided to print a belt tensioner. Now printing is super smooth.
The build time was about two days. On the first day I assembled the mechanical part: frame, motors and stuff. Then the second day I did the wiring, electronics, testing and adjustments.
Here are some more pictures:
The completed case:
and the belt tensioner ( I uploaded the design here if you’re interested )
Nice addition, thx for it.
Ark.
PS: Found both my pulleys wobble and cause wave shaped planes on the sides of my printed testobjekts (cube 10mm x 10mm x 10mm).
of course the first layer plane is just that planar
The wave shaped sides is due to the Z wobble. I still had this pattern on my prints even with round pulleys and proper tensioned belts.
What helped was clamping the motor to the frame with a large hose clamp and a little metal plate as spacer.
Now the motor can’t move and all printed layers have the same height
I had fixed the problem with the Z-Axis by another way.
For the Axis holter on the top i desing a new part , becase the original is not stable an begins to wobble.
Stepper and z-axis i connect with an flex coupler.
This is a pictute of the Messuhr holder i have printet after modifikate the printer.
I had uploadet the axis-holder to thingiverse.com/thing:135151
Very nice but,
Normally this reinforcement should not be necessary
Did you oil the shafts and threaded rod?
This is important to remove stress from the plastic holders and motors.
Keep up the good work
Yes i did oil the z-axis and shafts.
The first problem was wobble by stepper motor.
Then i changed to an flex axis coupler.
The result was bether, bit i saw thad the holder on the top starts to wobble.
So i open the two screws on top of the axis (so it is not fixed in high) and the result was mutch bether.
But some times the layer high was not exact.
I had checked this with the messuhr. (some times it jumps ±0,03mm)
Now is the new top holder the fixing point for the z-axis high (and not the stepper).
The diferece of the layer high is max ±0,01mm (0,01mm is the resulution of my messuhr)
Okay the hose clamp was no optimal solution. So this time I replaced the threaded rod with a proper Trapezoidal Spindle.
Not too expensive, around 10 € for a one meter long 8x1.5 spindle. There are cheap matching plastic or steel nuts too but I didn’t want to make a compromise again and bought a 8x1.5 nut made from red brass. The nut didn’t fit in the original nut holder so I had to print my own matching Z follower parts.
I’d also print one of eytec’s top spindle holders but I’m currently out of square nuts and it seems with a straight spindle the original small spindle holder is good enough.
The flex coupler could be printed too. I still bought a professional alu flex coupler because it fits better with the alu profiles
Now the Z wobble is almost completely gone. With the LED light directly from above you can still see a pattern but if you look from the side you’ll notice the amplitude is below 0.1 mm.
This looks very promising.
A combination of this and edirol’s improved Z motor holder (Z-Motor holder replacement) might bring the whole thing one additional step further.
By the way:
Wouldn’t it improve things further to have the Z-motor on top and the spindle sitting at it’s bottom with a fixed holder at it’s lower end?
Thus the motor’s bearings wouldn’t have to carry the spindle’s and the whole Z traverse assembly’s weight, and given a reasonably precise fixed spindle holder the wobble thingy should be decreased futher.
Of course, the motor would have to be configured to turn counterclockwise, this can be achieved by either changing the controller firmware or by re-wiring the motor, so it shouldn’t be a big hurdle.
Hi, by my solution the spindle holder on the top had to carry the weight of the wholle Z traverse.
The nut on the top of the spindle pulls up the spndle, so there is no wight on the z-motor.
The flex motor coupler is a litle bit streched.
So you must not mount the z-wotor on top.
Did you change anything in Marlin/Firmware because of the different flank lead?
The M8 threaded rod has a 1.25 lead and the trapezoidal spindle has 1.5, so fewer steps are needed for the same height.
kind regards
Daniel
Yes, I forgot to mention I had to update the steps per unit setting and recompile the firmware.
3200 steps / 1.5 mm = 2133.3333333333333333333333333333 steps per mm
2133.333333… is a pretty odd number and somewhere I read that the steps per layer should be a multiple of the microstepping multiplier (x16). So I rounded the value down to 2112 steps per mm. This means the stepper can make 33 full steps per layer ( 0.25 mm ). Might be a problem when printing very tall objects because the value is about 1% off from the real value. However with this value the 10mm calibration cube printed exactly 10.0 mm high.
eytec,
am loving your work,
the mods you have on yours, look the business, you obviously know what you are doing.
thanks for sharing the z clamp design.
do you have the other parts on thingiverse?
i’m liking your flat bet gauge holder, blower nozzle, universal joint!
have you modified your flatbed adjuster system, i imagine you weren’t happy with the stock solution.
thanks very much for your time,
keep up the good work, your an inspiration:)
gary:)
Thanks erikthecat, for the nice compliments.
normaly i share all the things by thingiverse.com/eytec/designs
The last days i print on a mirror ordered by Amazon
amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?_ … 5x20%2C5cm )
they are 205x205x1,75mm and hade 180g.
The flat bet leveling system i had not modifikatet, (with the mirror it is easyer to kalibrate so other things are higher priority).
In the future i will make something like this for z-endstop: thingiverse.com/thing:146695
The next days i will start to print ABS and NYLON. (In the moment it runs the first testprint with NYLON 645)
Bluetape is only used for the nylon, PLA i print direct to the miror surface
[quote=“eytec”]The next days i will start to print ABS and NYLON. (In the moment it runs the first testprint with NYLON 645)
Bluetape is only used for the nylon, PLA i print direct to the miror surface[/quote]
Where have you bought your Nylon 645 ?
Can you share your parameters to print Nylon
Do you use the originer nozzle ?
The NYLON 645 i had orderd by igo3d.com
I had canceld in the moment the test with nylon. (need the time for other things in the moment)
So i had no parameters at the time. By the first test (with the gear) the kapton and the blue tabe will warp. (the nylon sticks at he tapes and pull the tapes up from the bed)
so i think 90°C was to mutch heat on the bed. (after i had senn thad the glasstemp. is at 68°C, i will do tests in the future with 75°C)
The print temperature was 245°C and the layer binding is great.
The nylon is a elastic material. by 1mm wall thiknes you can deform the printed objects like a rubberduck in your hand.
And yes i used the original nozzle.
Ok, thanks for the answer. I think I will try to use NYLON, but I search also a materiel hard to made some piece like gear.
the gear i printet with nylon is not so flexible like the 1mm wall. (and i had made only 2 test prints with nylon)
but i think it is very strong in heavy duty.
Here the tips from taullman: taulman3d.com/645-features.html
Anyone else had success with nylon? I got a spool of taulman 618 nylon, but the extruder doesnt grip it. Its too slippery… idea’s?