It’s all good, with the 24v 150 watt psu I have more than enough grunt to keep the plate hot - the problem was I’d only taped the plate down with kapton and it was coming lose - floating 1-2 mm higher on one corner.
I’ve printed out the mirror clips from here thingiverse.com/thing:258809 they no apply even pressure all the way aroud
I’ve also perfected my glass cleaning.
First i spray and wipe down with Windex, then once that is dry I use glasses lens cleaner and a microfiber glasses towel (this product actually - s1343.photobucket.com/user/molly … 7.jpg.html)
The print adhears so well I have to wait for the bed temp to drop or trying to remove the part removes the mirror.
Once I’d secured the mirror better I can now print all over it without issue and, after tweaking my Z stop (now using: thingiverse.com/thing:317411) and bed level, have achieved some beautiful marathon 7 hour prints already.
I thank you for your patience, my opinion of this printer currently stands at “It’s not a bad printer, if only Velleman had charged $100 more and included a better PSU and z-coupling, every other upgrade is optional”
I’m now assisting another local get his printer going (he had a dead driver, and terrible soldering on his z stop, and he flipped the x and y stops…)
Sure the k8200 is not the “best” printer on the market, but it allows you to learn incredibly
much while tweaking and upgrading it. That’s the reason why i bought it in the first place.
So, till having issues with feeding, that thing where it starts ticking (like i the video), it’ getting much further along into the print before it has issues.
It does’t appear to be jammed, when I reach over and apply light pressure to the gear, just pressing down with the back of my finger nail on a tooth, it spins fine. I do have a heatsink on the stepper extruder stepper driver and it is quite warm to the touch when it starts doing this (my k-type probe says 48c - but it has a terrible thermal pad under it so the driver i probably much hotter)
Going to use some arctic silver thermal epoxy to mount a much larger heatsink.
I found a small heatsink (like 6x8 or 8x10) is sufficient if glued on with a good thermal adhesive. (similar to superglue)
But : I also use the case (designed by raby) around the Controller where a 40mm fan blows directly over the heatsinks of the drivers.
Should be absolutely sufficient whne used in a case with fan.
Just make sure to mount them in the right direction. (so that the airflow can pass through the fins)
I would suggest to contact raby via thingiverse comment. (he is gere on the forum too)
Maybe he is willing to leave you the design files for easier tweaking.
The case was one of my first test prints after calibrating, and i thought ict couldn’t harm
to protect the controller a bit. That’s why I made it.
You are probably right, many 40mm fans are quite noisy.
I think i exchange my cooling fan on the prinhead for a bigger one too,
after i added the second leadscrew for mor z axis stability.
The small one can barely push enough air through the tight nozzle to cool.
But now, I have a new issue lol, warping, it’s happening most to the right side and front of prints, which makes me suspect that it’s the airflow from the e3d cooling fan, what do you think?
What i found that helps best with warping is really good cooling. Sounds paradox, i know.
But since i mounted my 400 cooling fan like this, i have almost no problem with warping parts :
(fan is set to 100% from second layer on) thingiverse.com/thing:1022249
