[quote=“ichbinsnur”][quote=“artcominio”][quote=“ichbinsnur”]Did you ever do such calculations for X and Y too?
The X and Y axes are way more coarse than z.[/quote]
Excellent point. The Internet can be a wonderful source of information for those who discriminate. It is also a wonderful source for disinformation.
For the stock K8200, at 2560 steps per MM, a one MM error in the Z-Axis is an error of 0.04%.
At 64.25 steps per MM for the X and Y axes, a one MM error is an error of 1.5%.
The numbers speak for themselves, and beg the question as to why nobody ever worries about so-called “optimal” moves for the X and Y axes.
In what way do those videos invalidate anything I have said? I stand by my statement that once the best values are set in config,h for steps/MM, it is irrelevant what value you choose for layer thickness when printing. These videos instruct you how to chose the steps/MM for config.h, and have NOTHING to do with picking an “optimal” value for layer thickness. It is time to put this urban myth to bed once and for all.
[quote=“h60”]Also, I have measured that my first layers are not 0.1mm each but more like 0.06, 0.07, 0.07, 0.10, 0.10, etc.
I expect backlash in the Z-axis.
Erik[/quote]
How can backlash be an issue when the z-axis only moves in the plus z direction during a print? Backlash only happens when the direction is reversed.
Well, the first layers are printed right after the z-axis has moved in the opposite direction (z-home).
I cannot explain why I measured different heights for my first layers if this is no backlash (see measured results here)…
[quote=“tmicke”]So very interesting, thanks for sharing!
Is a print height of 0.2mm a good standard setting?
I’m having huge issues with the nozzle making “scratches” in the surface while printing new layers, the nozzle is “plowing” trough the top of last print layer each time.
I guess I’ve been a bit simple minded by thinking the finer layer the better result?[/quote]
This sounds like it might be printing “too fat,” that is, extruding too much material.
I have been printing with 0.3mm thickness for the first layer but although it looks really good,
the PLA sticks to the BuildTak like crazy and I have a lot of issues removing the print from the plate.
For now, I will go back to 0.2mm for the first layer, see if that helps again…
I never used a claculated “optimal layer height”, but my prints although look quite smooth. (i usually use flat values as 0.1/0.15/0.2/0.25 ans so on without noticable “quality loss”)
At least after putting the leadscrew on the z axis.
I found the X/Y upgrade to smaller GT2 pulleys (16 tooth) help the smoothness increase much further.
[quote=“ichbinsnur”]I never used a claculated “optimal layer height”, but my prints although look quite smooth. (i usually use flat values as 0.1/0.15/0.2/0.25 ans so on without noticable “quality loss”)
At least after putting the leadscrew on the z axis.
I found the X/Y upgrade to smaller GT2 pulleys (16 tooth) help the smoothness increase much further.[/quote]
Are you able to change the layer thickness without changing any other slicer parameters? In other words, can you print the same object twice at different layer thicknesses by changing ONLY the layer thickness?
With my K8200 and its rather crude extruder, changing layer thickness interacts with flow rate. If I just reduce layer thickness, then my prints are “too fat” so I need to reduce flow rate also.
I have never been able to find a single set of “golden” parameters that work for all prints. This is especially true with prints that have moving parts. I have successfully printed the NASA ratchet wrench, the Maker Faire Robot, and the working Crescent Wrench. But I had to use different CURA parameters for each object. This took trial and error and wasted much filament.
With complex objects like the gyro cube, I get a lot of stringing. Tweaking temperature and flow rate is something I have become used to doing for different objects, never mind layer thickness!
What do you know that I have not yet discovered?
Finally, I have never had an acceptable print at 0.2mm so I use 0.3mm for everything. When I see people claim to print on a K8200 at 0.1mm or 0.2 I wonder how they do it. I’ve replaced my z axis threaded rod with a trapezoidal spindle, but I’m still using the original belts and extruder.
In my opinion a stock K8200 with all original parts is not capable of meeting the specs it supposedly meets.
[quote=“artcominio”]
What do you know that I have not yet discovered?
Finally, I have never had an acceptable print at 0.2mm so I use 0.3mm for everything. When I see people claim to print on a K8200 at 0.1mm or 0.2 I wonder how they do it. I’ve replaced my z axis threaded rod with a trapezoidal spindle, but I’m still using the original belts and extruder.
In my opinion a stock K8200 with all original parts is not capable of meeting the specs it supposedly meets.[/quote]
I never said i can use any “golden” parameters that work on all circumstances.
That would be illusion.
There are too many factors influencing the print.
Only thing i said i can print the same part with different layer heights without changing other parameters.
Lets say one time with 0.15mm and then with 0.25mm
Going from very thin to very thick may have an influence on the flow. I never printed a part with layer heights that differed more than 0.15mm.
Going with the stock nozzle you won’t get good prints at below 0.25 i think. I could’nt get one out at lower than 0.25.
It simply extrudes to unstable.
That is why i switched to an E3D v6, which performs way better.
But in it’s price range, even the stock k8200 is a nice printer, especially for learning about the technology.
I learned a lot while improving it.
