Hi everyone, I just finished to assemble my new K8200 printer and Im a little bit struggeling with the next step.
I was looking for a manual in pdf that tell me how and the order for installing the driver and software for the printer, but I cant find a guide.
Can someone plz give me the trick?
Witch is the right order to procede now? thx a lot in advance.
k8200.eu/manual/printing/?c=002
k8200.eu/manual/printing/?c=003
i think chapter 2 is what youre looking for- youre nearly there just the last push
In the download section for the K8200 you will find a custom copy of Repetier 0.95F
This has the drivers and INI file already.
After you install it you may have to go into the printer settings and make sure Reset on Connect is set to Disabled
Ok i have setted up almost everything, I just not sure how to install the new firmware merlin V2, there are no executable files, where have I to go for the upgrade??
Thx in advance 
[quote=“Bigskill”]Ok i have setted up almost everything, I just not sure how to install the new firmware merlin V2, there are no executable files, where have I to go for the upgrade??
Thx in advance :)[/quote]
You must download the source files (marlin archive) and compile and upload them with Arduino IDE 1.0.6.
cheers,
Christian
[quote=“ichbinsnur”][quote=“Bigskill”]Ok i have setted up almost everything, I just not sure how to install the new firmware merlin V2, there are no executable files, where have I to go for the upgrade??
Thx in advance :)[/quote]
You must download the source files (marlin archive) and compile and upload them with Arduino IDE 1.0.6.
cheers,
Christian[/quote]
Oh so I have to download Arduino IDE 1.0.6 then.
Thanks!!!
Any reason you need to upgrade the firmware straight away? You can use V1 preinstalled especially to get up and running and that first monumental print under your belt.
What do you get when you press connect?
FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:http://www.k8200.com/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:K8200 EXTRUDER_COUNT:1
Are there any immediate advantages to using V2 on a stock machine?
From the downloads sections i see if your building a k8200 with the LCD SD card holder it’s necessary:
k8200.eu/support/downloads/
Version 2 of the k8200 firmware called Marlin based on Sprinter and grbl Reprap firmware. Copyright © 2011 Camiel Gubbels / Erik van der Zalm. This version supports the VM8201 (LCD and SD card controller.
[quote=“tyharness”]Any reason you need to upgrade the firmware straight away? You can use V1 preinstalled.
What do you get when you press connect?
FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:http://www.k8200.com/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:K8200 EXTRUDER_COUNT:1[/quote]
Yep precisely this.
I prefere to install directly the new firmware, i think is better no?
Is there a specific reason? Do you have the new Firmware installed?
Anyway Im not sure about the differences tho…
You’ve tested all the motors, set the home stops and extrudor and bed heating is all okey dokey?
Me personally I’d get the first print under my belt. The only advantage I can see is if you’re building the machine with the LCD and SD card - at least I think. If you’ve got that first print done you’ve done well.
The main difference is that v2 supports the LCD/SD controller.
Another difference is, that from V2 the endstops are disabled during print.
This should reduce endstop hit issues when printing really large parts.
cheers,
Christian
Im still balancing the bed frame compared the extruder, I already setted the home stops, yes.
All is moving and heating.
The only issue I have now is the extruder is not perfectly 3mm distance on the bottom left of the carriage.
I have to see if I have to play more with the stop bolt.
[quote=“Bigskill”]Im still balancing the bed frame compared the extruder, I already setted the home stops, yes.
All is moving and heating.
The only issue I have now is the extruder is not perfectly 3mm distance on the bottom left of the carriage.
I have to see if I have to play more with the stop bolt.[/quote]
If it is not more than 5mm off you simply can use it as it is.
Unless you are not printing absolute maxium size (200x200mm) parts it won’t matter.
cheers,
Christian
[quote=“ichbinsnur”][quote=“Bigskill”]Im still balancing the bed frame compared the extruder, I already setted the home stops, yes.
All is moving and heating.
The only issue I have now is the extruder is not perfectly 3mm distance on the bottom left of the carriage.
I have to see if I have to play more with the stop bolt.[/quote]
If it is not more than 5mm off you simply can use it as it is.
Unless you are not printing absolute maxium size (200x200mm) parts it won’t matter.
cheers,
Christian[/quote]
Was 4.5 on one side and almost 5 on the other side, figured out that the main metal frame arch was a little offset, and put back in position.
Thx so much anyway now I go ahead with the settings
Ok everything is setted and centered, tomorrow i will go to buy a tempered glass to put on.
The nozzle at the moment is kind 5 mm from the ehated bed, and i cant go lower becauze there is the Z axis switch that go in contact with the Z axis frame moveing.
Is it normal like this?
If tomorrow I buy the glass bed i will go up to 2 mm i guess, but still is far away from the suggested 0.25 mm…
Any suggestion?
Thanks
hi,
pop a few washers behind the microswitch then it should clear the plate on z axis. allowing the plate to clear as it descends.
this should give you plenty of adjustment to set up the 0.25mm.
it’s well worth doing a few small prints on the stock bed- it sticks well. A glass bed is good and well worth it,
ty
[quote=“tyharness”]hi,
pop a few washers behind the microswitch then it should clear the plate on z axis. allowing the plate to clear as it descends.
this should give you plenty of adjustment to set up the 0.25mm.
it’s well worth doing a few small prints on the stock bed- it sticks well. A glass bed is good and well worth it,
ty[/quote]
Yes i thought to do that too but this way the screw will not be long enough to settle there 
I dont have other screw with me.
Did you use a longer one for that?
Thx guys really appreciate the help.
65mm long
i’ve seen some people crank up the micro switch lever.
Most electronic shops sell threaded stand offs that will fit the screw for the Z axis.
This will extend the screw (you will need to turn it 180 degrees so the slot is on the top) and give it a bigger base.
This will also make it easier to adjust.
[quote=“Wrong Way”]Most electronic shops sell threaded stand offs that will fit the screw for the Z axis.
This will extend the screw (you will need to turn it 180 degrees so the slot is on the top) and give it a bigger base.
This will also make it easier to adjust.[/quote]
Mmmm how can I turn it 190 ° if the switch button only has 1 position…I dont understand…sorry…
I’ve used a long screw but not a bad idea of extending the one you’ve got with a stand off if you’ve one to hand.
What you can’t see is the micro switch has 3 washers spacing it off the motor bracket.
Also what might be useful is check the z lead screw is not excessively pulled laterally as z arm moves up and down.
You can see I’ve used a tatty plastic spacer for the z nut. The motor shaft and lead screw need to be well aligned
to avoid the z wobble. One day I’ll get round to a mod. that holds the micro switch in a nice position.
Ty