Do i still need an extra power supply if i use the mk2
Yes the Vertex PSU is not powerful enough do deliver the extra 150W needed. You can buy a (relatively) cheap 2nd PSU or swap the stock one for an expensive 350W 15V PSU.
Hello,
I installed second extruder. This is somehow crazy how it works. “Ooze Shield”, “Wipe Tower” everything feels like CLASH OF CLANS. I tried printing with 0.2mm layer hight and got real nice two colored printouts.
I also ordered “MK3 heatbed” with “Thermistor 100K SMD” and a “Thermal insulator”.
My question is do i edit Marlin Thermistortable for this "Epcos 100K SMD NTC 3950K 5% R/T Table No:4901
Regards
Niyazi
[b]Data for Marlin’s thermistortables.h if you want to modify your firmware
{270OVERSAMPLENR ,155 },
{293OVERSAMPLENR ,150 },
{319OVERSAMPLENR ,145 },
{346OVERSAMPLENR ,140 },
{475OVERSAMPLENR ,135 },
{405OVERSAMPLENR ,130 },
{437OVERSAMPLENR ,125 },
{470OVERSAMPLENR ,120 },
{505OVERSAMPLENR ,115 },
{540OVERSAMPLENR ,110 },
{575OVERSAMPLENR ,105 },
{611OVERSAMPLENR ,100 },
{647OVERSAMPLENR ,95 },
{682OVERSAMPLENR ,90 },
{717OVERSAMPLENR ,85 },
{750OVERSAMPLENR ,80 },
{781OVERSAMPLENR ,75 },
{811OVERSAMPLENR ,70 },
{838OVERSAMPLENR ,65 },
{863OVERSAMPLENR ,60 },
{886OVERSAMPLENR ,55 },
{907OVERSAMPLENR ,50 },
{925OVERSAMPLENR ,45 },
{941OVERSAMPLENR ,40 },
{955OVERSAMPLENR ,35 },
{967OVERSAMPLENR ,30 },
{977OVERSAMPLENR ,25 },
{986OVERSAMPLENR ,20 },
{993OVERSAMPLENR ,15 },
{999OVERSAMPLENR ,10 },
{1004OVERSAMPLENR ,5 },
{1008OVERSAMPLENR ,0 }[/b]
I’m working with the default setting and the temperature is accurate.
I want also to add such a heatbed to my vertex printer.
So I have one question about your solution:
Do you control the heatbed only from the printers local controller
or do you made changes to the cura settings?
[quote=“chessi”]Do you control the heatbed only from the printers local controller
or do you made changes to the cura settings?[/quote]
You have to set the desired temperature of the heated bed in the ‘filament’ settings of Cura (default is 0°).
i’ve mounted the heatbed of my other printer on my vertex but i don’t know how i can adjust the distance that the bed moves up when i start a new print
By adjusting the Z Endstop of course …
cheers,
Christian
By adjusting the Z Endstop of course …
cheers,
Christian[/quote]
In the arduino file or in repetier?
In hardware on the printer. 
You can also change the build area Z height in repetier printer settings for larger amount of adjustment.
the problem is when i home the printer the bed doesnt touch the nozzle but when i start a new print the bed raise and touch the nozzle, who can i adjust this
who knows how i can solve this?
Can you post a youtube video of your problem?
May be better to understand.
It might be a good idea.
Actually, I’m a bit puzzled by your problem : when you home the printer, the bed is at its up-most position so it can’t raise upper when the print start.
What it does when the hot-end is hot is the following :
- the bed is lowering a bit.
- The extruder moves to reach the start position of the print
- The bed raises to its former position and actual printing begins
The only way for the nozzle to hit the bed is if the bed is bulging in the center.
When i start a new print the printer does an auto home and then when the hotend is hot, it raise an extra distance so the heatbed crashed against the nozzle
If you crash the nozzle 2 problems are possible related on hardware.
-
Sensor on the Z axis is not set correct solution: recalibrate
-
Sensor Z axis is not working solution: switch with the sensor from X or Y axis if your sure they work.
-
Did you load the single head software if you have a single extruder printer
as they come with the dual software loaded in de arduino controller.
Did you adjust the Z axis after installing your heatbed? When you home the printer manually does it crash into the bed?
You might also look in the Cura settings in the Print/G-Codes tab: the Start G-Code should look like this (it’s the one moving the bed at the beginning of the print):
G28 ; Home extruder
G1 Z5 F{Z_TRAVEL_SPEED}
G1 Z0 F{Z_TRAVEL_SPEED}
G90 ; Absolute positioning
M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode
{IF_BED}M190 S{BED}
M106 S80 ; Turn on fan
; Activate all used extruder
{IF_EXT0}M104 T0 S{TEMP0}
{IF_EXT1}M104 T1 S{TEMP1}
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position
; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature
{IF_EXT0}M109 T0 S{TEMP0}
{IF_EXT1}M109 T1 S{TEMP1}
{IF_EXT0}T0
{IF_EXT1}T1
M83
G1 E10 F100
M82
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position
M117 Vertex is printing
G1 F1000 Z5
hello,
can someone tell me how much ampere my powersupply has to deliver when i use a mk3 heatbed
both in 12V and 24V
[quote=“avdb”]hello,
can someone tell me how much ampere my powersupply has to deliver when i use a mk3 heatbed
both in 12V and 24V[/quote]
In 12V it’s between 10 and 12 A.
In 24V it’s between 4.8 and 6 A.
It means you need about 150W for your PSU.
1/ Resistance between 1.4 and 1.6 ohm for the 12V
2/ Resistance between 5.0 and 5.4 ohm for the 24V
100 degree Celsius possible for both 12V and 24V
3/ With 15V on the 12V terminals will maintain approx. 115 degree Celsius without regulation
4/ Running 24V on the 12V terminals will heatup the heatbed to 100 degree in only 2 minutes (Your printer controller will regulate the power to the heatbed in order to get your preset temperature.)
180 degree Celsius max. temperature
1/ I=U/R=12/1.4 = 8.6A (103W max)
2/ I=U/R=24/5.0 = 4.8A (115W max)
3/ 15/1.4= 10.7A (160W max)
4/ 24/1.4= 17.1A (410W max)
data from reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed
hmm, Another source reprap.me/heatbed/alu-241.html
Resistance at 12 Volt setting is between 1.0 and 1.25 Ohm (115~144 Watt)
Resistance at 24 Volt setting is between 4.0 and 5.0 Ohm (144 ~115 Watt)
110 degrees Celsius possible for both 12 Volt and 24 Volt
Running 24 Volt on the 12 Volt terminals will heatup the heatbed to 100 degree in only 2 minutes (will also consume up to 576 Watts!!)
Maximum temperature rating: 180 degree Celsius
what is right ?