hi, 12mm³/s is a lot of material. That sounds good, as I also have to print a lot of big objects without too much detail. Basically a 24hr print could reduce to ~12hrs if I can double the (constant)feedrate, right?
According to wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_ … eman_K8400
The author writes
“The Velleman firmware has some serious configurations flaws when using a E3D v6 hotend. I made some modifications to the original firmware in order to use the E3D v6 hotend on the K8400 VERTEX printer. This version supports only one extruder head.”
Hi,
I have order 2 E3D-V6 and will convert during the christmas.
According to wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_ … eman_K8400
The author writes :
“The Velleman firmware has some serious configurations flaws when using a E3D v6 hotend. I made some modifications to the original firmware in order to use the E3D v6 hotend on the K8400 VERTEX printer. This version supports only one extruder head.”
Does anyone knows the “flaws”, and what You must change in the firmware to get dual E3D-V6 hotends working in the K8400 ?
I have found that following should be changed in firmware/repertier but can’t find anything about “serious configuration flaws” !!!
Set maximum PWM output for orginal E3DV6 matching 15V vs 12V (if used instead of Velleman std)
Set retraction to about 2 mm, retraction speed ??
Change nozzle diameter
Set the temp calibration (matching Semitec 104-GT2, marlin 5)
Anything more ?
regards
Not aware of any “serious configurations flaws”. Runs perfect in double-headed mode since July. Used original heater cartridges from K8400. Purchased 0.35mm nozzles from E3D to match the original size. Retraction is set to 5mm. Further details are here thingiverse.com/thing:1687914
good morning,
no issues with 2x E3D V6, nor with CYCLOPS or CHIMERA
Runs all fine with the K8400
Best
Frank
A late thank You both for Your reply. I ordered 2 set original E3Dv6. I didn’t like any of the available vertex-e3dv6 designs to 100% and started design my own. It took a while. The design in openscad is now ready, printed in PLA and up and running. In the beginning of my print attempts with ABS, I had big problems. Read that heatbed and “no-cooling” should make it. But my prints looked terrible. When I started to use cooling all fall in place. I now printing ABS and colorfabb XT (260C) without any problem.
My design:
Reuse of the K8400 connection board, bolts, radial fan and axial fan.
pros
Individual adjustables nozzles (up/down)
Clamps for bowden cables
Cable holders
Forced cooling of heat sinks (“high” pressure radial fan, w/o leakage against nozzles)
Separate cooling of nozzles (25 or 30 mm fan)
Pretty design
cons
? I cant find any yet
The model
Main printed parts
Modified E3Dv6 heatsink
Mounted
regards /L
Hi,
it is looking nice–I want to test it, how I can get the file to print it?
best regards
Wolfgang
I will upload to thingiverse but I cant do it before monday. /L
My design can be found at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2040056
Feel free to ask if You need more info.
1 Like
Hey,
there is my E3DV6 Mount. Have a look and enjoy 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2300112
Use together with:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2265245
The 2nd revision of my mount is published here thingiverse.com/thing:2177331
It addresses the following issues of 1st edition:
- the lower ends of left and right holders were too close to the heat-blocks and could melt
- as the result of printing process imperfections there were several gaps in between things causing ducts to leak air
- air duct openings were not aligned with the nozzles
- there was insufficient airflow/cooling towards bearings located under the print-head
- the wires coming from heaters and thermistors were hanging around X rod and it was not easy to fish them into the long channels of the main thing
- the fan was fixed in the position with sliding-in piece rather than screws
- air was hitting heat-blocks not allowing them to reach temperatures above 223 degrees
- while LEDs looked as a cool feature, they were not very practical due to ever-changing amount of light that hits Raspberry Pi camera. Having stationary LED strips along the edges of the printer is a better option.
- overall appearance/design had issues (at least in my opinion)
Thanks.
1 Like
Hello,
Last week i’ve made the purchase of the set of 2 E3D-V6 for the Velleman K8400. But i can’t seem to get it working as it’s supposed to do.
I’ve tried printing with PLA 1.75mm.
The questions i have are :
-
Loading the filament goes without trouble, during printing any project there is a loud noise coming from the loader, it seems like that it wants to feed more PLA to the printerhead.
What are the settings i’m supposed to use/ change? -
When i want to unload the filament, the partical that comes from the heater is alot thicker, which causes it to clog up between the printhead and isolator, the unloaded end that comes from the heater ends up being 45mm long and 2.06mm thick
-
How can i adjust the printarea?
I hope you can help me solve this issue
Best regards,
Ben
I got two suggestions:
- Did you assemble the E3D’s as in this instruction? wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly;
- Your second problem sounds like a lack of cooling. The E3D heatsink needs constantly cooling.
Good luck
Hi svdv,
[quote=“svdv”]I got two suggestions:
- Did you assemble the E3D’s as in this instruction? wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly;
- Your second problem sounds like a lack of cooling. The E3D heatsink needs constantly cooling.
Good luck[/quote]
-
Yes that is the link i used.
I don’t did the conifgure firmware under Marlin, because everything stay already in Marlin. -
I feel the the fan is working.
By the filament options i have:
Filament diameter 1.75
Flow: 100% (first i have this on 75%, but then was then ticking very loud about 1 minute.)
By 100% it’s softer ticking and the sound around 2 minutes now)
By both flows are the pla stuck in the head.
Print temp: 190
Bed temp: 0
Min fan: 20
Max fan:100
min layer:3
I don’t think you have to customize Marlin and even the flowrate is the same as with the original printhead.
Have you cleaned the printhead and checked for obstructions in the heatbreak?
If taken off the nozzle, can you push the filament through from the extruders site by hand?
And if the nozzle is hot (PLA around 200 degrees) can you push filament through by hand?
Be aware the fan is on all the time on 100%, not only when printing. I connected the fan directly to the PSU (with a resistor in between) to get the fan always on.
[quote=“svdv”]I don’t think you have to customize Marlin and even the flowrate is the same as with the original printhead.
Have you cleaned the printhead and checked for obstructions in the heatbreak?
If taken off the nozzle, can you push the filament through from the extruders site by hand?
And if the nozzle is hot (PLA around 200 degrees) can you push filament through by hand?
Be aware the fan is on all the time on 100%, not only when printing. I connected the fan directly to the PSU (with a resistor in between) to get the fan always on.[/quote]
Hello svdv,
I clean the nozzle and look for obstructions and it looks very well.
I can push the filament through by hand and it give not any problem.
When i heat the nozzle about 190 degrees the filament is coming out no problem.
Today i placed the orginale tube from velleman and while printing the tube came lose from the printerhead.
Strange, veru strange isn’t?
When i placed the tube from the e3dv6 then clutch the printerhead.
I see that you come from the nertherlands is there a way that we can speak dutch by mail or something, my english is not so good 
regards: Ben
Hi Ben,
I don’t know what you mean by this…
If the filament is coming out of the nozzle on a proper way, it could be that your retraction-distance is too big. 2 mm is maximum.
Als het filament normaal uit de nozzle komt, zou het kunnen zijn dat de terugtrek-afstand te groot is. Mag maximaal 2 mm zijn.
(Als je alleen in Nederlands wilt, zul je je mailadres hier moeten plaatsen. En als ik dat heb, kun je het weer verwijderen. We kunnen dan privé communiceren. Dat gaat niet via dit forum want dat is bedoeld om zoveel mogelijk mensen te bereiken.)
[quote=“svdv”]Hi Ben,
I don’t know what you mean by this…
If the filament is coming out of the nozzle on a proper way, it could be that your retraction-distance is too big. 2 mm is maximum.
Als het filament normaal uit de nozzle komt, zou het kunnen zijn dat de terugtrek-afstand te groot is. Mag maximaal 2 mm zijn.
(Als je alleen in Nederlands wilt, zul je je mailadres hier moeten plaatsen. En als ik dat heb, kun je het weer verwijderen. We kunnen dan privé communiceren. Dat gaat niet via dit forum want dat is bedoeld om zoveel mogelijk mensen te bereiken.)[/quote]
[quote=“logmett”]The 2nd revision of my mount is published here thingiverse.com/thing:2177331
It addresses the following issues of 1st edition:
- the lower ends of left and right holders were too close to the heat-blocks and could melt
- as the result of printing process imperfections there were several gaps in between things causing ducts to leak air
- air duct openings were not aligned with the nozzles
- there was insufficient airflow/cooling towards bearings located under the print-head
- the wires coming from heaters and thermistors were hanging around X rod and it was not easy to fish them into the long channels of the main thing
- the fan was fixed in the position with sliding-in piece rather than screws
- air was hitting heat-blocks not allowing them to reach temperatures above 223 degrees
- while LEDs looked as a cool feature, they were not very practical due to ever-changing amount of light that hits Raspberry Pi camera. Having stationary LED strips along the edges of the printer is a better option.
- overall appearance/design had issues (at least in my opinion)
Thanks.[/quote]
I have just made one of these and found it to be pretty good.
thingiverse.com/make:348164
I would say though, that the part cooling duct at the front does not deliver much air. Opted to mount the little stock fan at the front for PLA part cooling. Still experimenting with that for optimum prints. Used a thermal imaging camera to check how well the heatsinks were being cooled, and they seem to be doing OK so far. Cheers to Logmett for a really good design 
I ordered the 12V E3D V6 heads but kept the 12V heater cartridges in my spares box, re-using the Velleman 15V heaters. They work well and fit nicely in the V6 heat block.