Damaged K8048 or PIC16F627?

Kits Microcontroller Programmer - Experimenting Project
1

I have problems with communicating with my PIC, so I’ve read all threads on this forum (and even in others), but it still didn’t help. I would like to know, which part of the rest two things could be wrong:

When I bought this programmer, it wasn’t put together, so I entrust this to other person, including building the cable. We bought 12V DC adapter.

a) When I try to program the PIC, I get in PROGPIC the known message “No Device ID Received”. K8048 is successfully detected though.

b) I bought 15V DC source, but I didn’t work. Of course I always set the switch into the PRG position, so the red diode LD9 blinks. When in off, only green LD7 lits. I don’t know, if it is normal, but after I few minutes of powering the VR1, VR2 and especially C1 are too hot to put a finger on them.

c) I check the cable, even try another one including standard 1:1 for elongation. The same results. Even the Low-Programming mode didn’t help. The JP3 and JP2 are linked. I tried to change the COM port settings with no difference.

d) I tried many computers from 2 GHz AMD via 350MHz PII to 100 MHz 486, but still the same.

e) I tried to use PICPROGR2006, but even if I set the K8048 compatiblity (otherwise it would say “No Velleman connected”), the right port, any speed and the right PIC type, it says me, that the setting didn’t correspond with PIC on the board. When I tried to write, I get an error message “Error in writing” or something. When erasing, no message. When reading, just mounting addresses. But the LD8 diode didn’t blink (never).

f) the LD8 blinks only sometimes when switch to PRG or RUN, but not always, and only once for about 0.1s +/-. For once I was able (didn’t know how, but for sure I wasn’t doing anything with PIC, more likely with cable and the region around it) to manage the LD8 lit all the time while board was connected to PC and the switch is in OFF. When switched to PRG, it turn off, but when I was trying to Read form PIC, it blinks (but I’m not sure what the software read at all). By mistake I could lit it by put finger on some pins at the bottom of board, but this is more likely some sort of “short”…

e) When SW5 is in PRG or RUN position, the LD2 (one of the six diodes) lit. When in OFF, or when PIC isn’t in 18P when in RUN/PRG, it didn’t.

I don’t have many knowledge about soldering or engineering these boards, nor any testing device as oscillator. What do you think is wrong? Is it possible, that the PIC was defective when I bought it? If so, how could I know the other one I’ll buy will work?

Is it possible to get the K8048 working without shorting anything or replacing any components? I suppose the board have to work when producer made it this way, if didn’t, isn’t it reason for reclamation?

Thanks for any advice.

2

Hey, I had the same problem as you, and found that using different power supplies made a difference. I used a 12V source at first as it mentions in the manual that you can, but ran into occasional problems.

I then bought a 15V unregulated power adaptor, but was actually getting some odd voltages out of this power supply. It worked on and off.

The last day I tried using the power supply that my ADSL modem uses and it worked perfectly every time. This supply says 12VDC on it but I’ll measure the actual output voltage and get back to you.

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[quote=“elfman”] I don’t know, if it is normal, but after I few minutes of powering the VR1, VR2 and especially C1 are too hot to put a finger on them.
[/quote]

{ from another forum user, not on behalf of Velleman }

I think that indicates you may have a problem with the assembly of the kit.

I have the VM111 (prebuilt) version, and the regulators do NOT heat up noticably.

A rise in temperature means they are trying to dispose of excess energy (Watts). Watts is the product of Voltage and Current. The Voltage is determined by the PSU - the current consumed by the board and the PIC should be tiny, so there should be very little heat generated. If you are making heat you must be taking too much current, and that is probably a polarised component that has been reversed, or a short-circuit between two nearby solder points.

Good luck!

4

Thanks for advice. I’ll try to get another cheaper programmer to try at least the PIC itself and make it work…