Hi,
When i print some corners of my object are detaching from the printbed and therfore skew.
The printing is keep on going and finalizes ok.
What can be the reason of that?
Please check the FAQ and the numerous posts on this issue.
Wel, it is not in the FAQ since the object is not detaching completly
yest one side is comming uf…
It seems that the bigger the object is, the worse t gets…
Something to do with the vent maybe?
Check the temperature of the heated bed (PLA = 50°C). Make sure the surface of the bed is grease free (clean it with rubbing alcohol, degreaser, …) Make sure that while printing the first layer the tip of the nozzle is at the right distance from the bed so it squishes the first layer on the bed, thus creating a good bond between the plastic and the heated bed. Check if your bed is level. Use a fine grit sand paper (400) to roughen up the surface of the heated bed before degreasing.
Actions in bold are very important to prevent detaching, whether it be whole or partly. If done correctly you will have a very hard time detaching the object from the heated bed when printing is finished.
Use Kapton Tape on the heatbed. This works fine for PLA.
For ABS use “ABS Juice”. ABS disolved in Aceton. This hold the object on the heatbed, even when you did not reach the 90°C for the heatbed.
cu
Michael
Hi,
I’m doing all this but it only seems to detach when the ventilator is running, it looks like this cools down the bed to much.
I’m using the mirror upgrade and i’m always cleaning with alcohol.
I’ll keep on printing and test different methods…
Thx.
Hi
I had similar problems with objects detaching from the heatbed. I observed that the temperature of the heatbed is not being kept constant, even if I manually override. Have not had the time to check why this happens. I suspect that the heating current is too weak. This theory seems to be supported by the observation that it takes ages until the heatbed reaches 60°C.
Nevertheless, here is what worked for me:
I use a glass plate as reported in other posts, but only for the purpose of not spoiling the heatbed. Fix it to the heatbed with two strips of scotch tape. I then use a very thin double-sided sticking tape which I found at the local do-it-yourself shop. On this tape, the printed objects stick like hell and bulging of the corners is more or less resolved, at least significantly improved.
Hint: Keep a few glass plates on stock (obtain from do-it-yourself shop), since removal of the double sided tape is rather involving. I use Aceton or Adhesive Remover and a thin blade. The removal procedure is a bit tedious but the result is very good.
Good luck.
Karl
Hi,
If you use a mirror or glass plate, make sure it’s clean and your fan is ‘off’.
No need for extra adhesive materials, and thus no need for cleaning the plate after printing.
I am using a mirror for some time now. Had some trouble in the beginning, but only when I used the fan.
Kind regards,
BigDee
Hi,
I’ve noticed in the meantime that the detaching is caused by the fan. When it thus not come on, there is no detaching.
Can i always print withouth the fan then?
Thx,
Kris
Hello,
@premme
Do you have a additional Powersupply for the headbed?
Sometimes you will need the fan, for examble when you have some bridging in your object or some thin prints.
You will need this heatbed update with the powersupply, the voltage of the original is to low. It should be 24V.
After this the fan will not be able to cooldown the bed anymore.
Best regards,
DCM
I have built 2 K8200
The first one I sanded the bed with good results
The second one I did not sand
What I have found is the more I use it the better things stick to it
I also make sure the room is warm 73 F or above
On small objects I print with a brim
So far I don’t have a problem with that
BTW did I say how much I really like this machine?
[quote=“Wrong Way”]
BTW did I say how much I really like this machine?[/quote]
Same here 
Probably because it’s not an “out-of-the-box” thing. Tweaking and fiddling is how you tame this little pet.
This printer slowly becomes a unique piece of art.
[quote=“Wrong Way”]
BTW did I say how much I really like this machine?[/quote]
I do agree, i also like this machine
Hi Premme,
recently had the same problem with large parts (18cm). I changed the heatbed temperature from 50°c to 60°C.
It took some time to reach this temp, but solved my problem.
Regards
I use blue painter tape from 50 mm wide, this tape on top of a mirror it makes the bed flat and keeps the object on the bedplate, then you can put the fan on for cooling the smaller parts, when you are printing a golf tee for example, it gets messed up without the fan
Hello
With respect to my earlier post I can now confirm that I no longer need any tape or other measures to keep the parts sticking. The following parameters have to be controlled carefully:
- printbed must be very level as suggested elsewhere
- use a glass plate with thickness of 2 mm (4mm mirror did not work for me at all; probably because the heating power is insufficient and because the thermal conduction was insufficient)
- glass plates with more thickness might call for an additional powersupply for the heatbed in order to heat up the additional heat capacity and cope with the losses reasonably
- print objects with a sufficient brim (I suggest 10 mm, especially for smaller parts)
Printing with brim is a good test for the quality of the first layer. If the brim does not stick properly or gets ripped off by the travelling nozzle, you can stop the print job and you need to readjust your (mechanical) settings. My nozzle is rather 0.2mm than 0.25 near the printbed for the first layer; this helps to “smear” the first layer a little so that the surface contact is improved.
-Karl
PS: I have installed a micrometer screw for easy setting of the Z end stop, similar to a suggestion posted on Thingiverse (the part dimensions there were not in agreement with my machine setup so I had to design a different distance part). This is VERY practical and I can recommend it to everyone.