Hi JeAfKe,
thanks for reply and putting the video on.
I will probably go for your design, except the PCB.
For test purpose, I will take the original PCB, the fan.
Bu tI will take the aluminum holder for the stock heater as base for my adoption.
My idea is, to have Distanzhülsen (what ever that is in English) to get the sink below the rod.
So I have to undo my changes for the E3D V6 and get everything back to stock configuration.
Taking the all holder, drilling some bigger holes in it (where the little fan was mounted),
putting the Distanzhülsen in and getting the wire in the printer.
I will use some relays for triggering the 15V to the original heaters.
So heaters are directly connected to the PSU. To get the current out of the box.
Doing it for the headed for a long time and that works…
There I wil have some connectors to change from Cyclops to Chimera.
That is the idea, and if time allows, I will be done by Monday.
BUT!!!
can you provide me the STL file for your construction, so I can use it with S3D out of th box.
I do not know what your format is, since I use 123D
Ok,
i have my Chimera up and running.
Just two issues so far:
I took the hotends from my V6 version because they are wired already - > V6 thermistor and K8400 original heater
I used the original material from the original hotends more or less -> PCS, aluminum plate, top fan
The only prob I have right now, is the endstop of the Z-axis.
The original position will hit the bed.
I took the two holes below, but that gives me 2cm off the bed.
So how did you get the Z-axis set correctly?
Yeah, the parts have different components the bottom part i epoxyd to the front part and holds really well that way every part can be printed just laying flat… If u use abs you could use acetone to create a rocksolid bond. I’ve printed the parts in nylon because if u don’t lock down the ptfe tube the entire thing will start to wiggle and cause the 3 holes to wear out where the sink is bolted on to… I’ve coated the inside of the holes with epoxy also while gluing the bottom part and it runs like this for months now with absolutely 0 play. The hardest part was finding the bolts that are 35mm or longer… I’ve eventually mcquivered 4 pieces of threaded rod into ‘’ bolts ‘’ I’m using the e3d 12v heaters… Runs absolutely perfect without any other hocus pocus except using better connectors… I’m using no extra wires for the always on fan. Just hooked it between the + of the heater cartridges and the - of the thermistors. The custom pcb is mainly because of that and also the better connectors are a huge advantage.
Z axis I’ve printed a longer set slide thingy for (the thing with the spring and the screw. Initially ive glued a piece of scrap plastic on top of it to make it higher and make it switch more early… But make sure the thing is perfect straight glued on… Otherwise it could hit the opto switch.
Hi JeAfKe,
thanks for the reply… really appreciated
I will probably drill some new holes in between the two mentioned positions.
So that will fit perfectly without other modification.
The long screws, I got them from my V6 modification, but I made them myself
by taking 80mm screws recutting the thread on the screws up the shaft.
then cutting the shaft on the required length.
So that worked.
Anyway, I will get it printing this weekend, and I will post some photos of my mod
When I am back in printing, then I go for a decent construction with your parts…
One issue I have is the Z-stop when changing the Chimera for the Cyclops,
they are not equal in height, so the Z-stop has to be adjusted, maybe, I can fill that gap with the length of the head breaks… we will see.
I don’t have the cyclops block (seemed to big of a hassle setting up the software side & and at the time there where no spare nozzles available for the cyclops heater block)
But that sounds like a dumb error by e3D tbh, I do know the standard v6 heatbreaks are longer, and somewhere i’ve read these could be used on the chimera setup just be sure to apply serious amounts of thermal compound on the threaded part of the heatbreak… Might be when using those the height matches the cyclops setup??? Because the heatbreaks provided are the short Kraken versions.
The re-threading of a existing bigger screw sounds SOOOO fucking obvious now why the hell didn’t I came up with that I’m so badly stealing that idea now
Good morning…
So I finished the first attempt in printing.
The alignment (height) was an easy task, since the hotends can move up and down in the shaft.
So picking one position, leveling head one, then moving to the same position with head two and adjust that one as well.
It took 2 mins to adjust both heads to the same height, TOP!!!
I relocated the Z-endstop, I had some spare parts of those, so the new endstop is just below the originanl one. WORKS!
What comes next:
I ordered 4 original heater cartridges 15V/33W to build the new V6 hotends and the cyclops
the new V6 have a decend thermistor, not that litte self-to-wire-thing, but a real finished setup, that is a great improvement. The thermistor now looks like a heater cartridge in 1:5 scale
I am going to use 2 heater cartridges for the Cyclops. Because you have a hole which is going thru the complete block.
I have to drill 2 holes for the screws into the block, which will be tricky due to this aluminum
Then I am done.
At the moment, I am in discussion with S3D how to set up the options for Cyclops.
The first answers weren’t that usable…
So actually, if you have the original printhead, you buy 2x Distanzhülsen 20 or 25mm,
Take the aluminum plate, drill a 8mm hole where the pushstops (PTFE-Tube) were sitting.
Reconnect the fan and you are done…
That is much easier then getting the single V6 on the print head.
That is all it needs to be changed…
Photos will follow…
JeAfKe: you can borrow you the rethreading of the screws
I was actually starting the same way, but was wondering why I shouldn’t do it more easier.
The Cyclops is a little higher then the Chimeara, so you have to readjust the print bed abt 5mm up…
Or use the Z-stop to adjust. But that was not tested, because I will setup th eCyclops
with the new cartridges from scratch.
I do not find the nozzle distance anymore, I have read it, but can find it to change in the firmware, do you have the info on hand?
I am away the coming week, so if I am back next Friday, the cartridges will be here,
then building both head with all new stuff
the heater issue was an issue with the stock set up. The connector on the main pcb went braun, because of bad connection.
I had to replace it. It was burned.
What I am going to do, is to replace the two heater connectors with two screwable green connectors, so I know that there is a good connection.
Otherwise I would not trust, because of my bad experience with it.
Yeah, the stock connectors are a joke, the biggest issue is they only make contact on 1side of the pin. I’m using small dupont connectors which go completely over the pin. So far they work flawlessly, even with the greater current of the e3d heaters.
Hi all,
I have the Chimera running and the Cyclops running.
On Cyclops I had a few minutes a nice print, but after abt 10 mins, one of the filament stocked.
I had to dismount everything and rebuild it.
I figured out, when using S3D with dual head wizard, they have a 12mm retract, which is a killer.
I reduced retract to 1.5mm for chimera and Cyclops. After that, I hat a 1h print, which was almost perfect.
Some fine tuning is necessary and some changes for the marlin software is needed.
I have changed the PINS.H and the CONFIGURATION.H with some new DEFINES to have the EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X set
and use the same thermistor for both extruders, depending on the installed print head.
I try to figure out, how this can be set via the menu, so no new compilation is needed each time you change the print head
Good morning all,
it is the second time within days, that the CYCLOPS (looking on the fan) left path blocks the filament.
First time, it was a bad retraction, which pulls out more filament than feeding back.
This time it might be a wrong temperature, used 200 instead of 185.
Changing the firmware to change installed print head, was cancelled, due to complexity.
Which means, to many changes in different files, which makes maintenance really complicated.
I stay with the different #defines
I keep you informed, that CYCLOPS thing seems to be pretty tricky
Flex filament cannot be printed due to less pressure to push back the other filament.
Almost everything is original.
the fans are a relict of the first V6 installation and is going directly to the PSU.
the images are showing the 12V 3oW heat cartridges.
Those have been changed to the original 15V 33W. Ordered in The Netherlands 12.80EUR each
ToDos:
cooling fan for the nozzle as developed my jeafke.
soldering pins to the head pcb instead of the green connectors, so changing from Cyclops to Chimera can be done without screw driver
I could be completely wrong
BUT,
This setup looks really prone to resonance at decent speeds.
My nr: 1 goal was to eliminate nozzle leveling and increased printing speed.
That’s the reason I used the 3 back holes to get head as close to the Cross center of printer. I could be completely wrong
Looking forward to see some prints with the cyclops sounds to complex for me
this is my major concern at the moment.
I was thinking the same way, but wanted to give it a try .
I was printing this two colored frog with Chimera, and the print head looks strange while printing.
Unfortunately, one filament got stuck outsite the printer and the print failed.
Have to reprint it for testing.
Good morning,
some new info about my project.
The green connectors of the print head pcb have been burnt, at least one contact for the right heater cartridge.
That was my fault I guess, since I soldered the ends of the wires and it might be, that the contact to the connector wasn’t that good.
Anyway, I upgraded my pcb with some new connectors.
But this kind of connector does not fit 100% to the holes on the pcb.
So I do recommend to use 3 pieces of 2-pin male connectors (Stiftleisten, Raster 2.54).
Those will fit better. The distance between holes is 2.54mm but since it have been the green connectors, the distance to the next connector is NOT 2.54mm
I added the fan duct taken from jeafke, but that was not long enough and does not reach the nozzle, but the heater block, which kills the temperature.
So we know, air is coming down the shaft, at least
I will modify the given fan duct and see what happens
@ jeafke: you are obviously right, I get “rounded” corners on cubes, so it must be something with the vibrations, the rest of the X-Y test cube is ok, but edges are rounded corners at the moment… will investigate
Any updates/progress with the chimera/cyclops configurations?
I will go to this setup as well, works the original 12V heater cartridge fine or can I use the 15v 33W Vertex one in the cyclops? Which thermistor is used and have I to change anything in the marlin firmware?
it works fine, except that my Cyclops got a blob Have to check what happened.
Bu meanwhile, I bought a Mono Price Select Mini for 199USD, which has a very small print area (12x12x12cm) but that one works like charge.
Mounted my old E3D v6 on it, made some mods with an additional fan and off it runs… perfect for the desktop.
I made all the tests and they are successfully accomplished.
I use the original k8400 heater cartridges with no prob…
I use the new E3D thermistors provided with the rig.
I finally replaced my vertex printhead by the E3D Chimera. I hoped the vertex works smoother with linear ball bearings and milled a custom “bearingblock” in stead of the injection mold XY cartridge. But the bearing I used have even a bit more play as the original velleman bushings. So not the hoped result but it works… Also the chimera coolerblock I custom milled. Now it’s a lot easier to reach the correct printingtemperatures but for now it still isn’t possible for me the set the 2 nozzles exact at the same hight. so one of them touches my print and comes loose from the printbed… the nozzles are also leaking even when I retract the filament…
Do someone have some tips for me to get the chimera working?
How works the cyclops with different materials? or works it only with one material 2 colours?
I’m so badly stealing that idea now 
