Hi there,
after starting my first prints I have the same problem, later it was not possible to start a print.
The power supply is absolutely rubbish, put it in the basket.
It makes a lot of electrical noise too.
I bought 2 switched power supplys with 24V/4.5A and 15V/6.2A and i never had these problems again.
Guten Rutsch
Sascha
Tested the printer with a 15VDC 4A power supply.
The printer works. Current drain during printing, less the fan, is below 4A but definitely higher than 3A.
So the velleman power supply must be defective, it cannot provide more than about 3.5A while the sticker says 6.5A.
Sending it back, expecting a return.
Have in the mean time sent in my PSU and received a (totally different) replacement. This PSU handles the power demand without any problem.
I can positively recommend sending it in, it took 2 weeks round trip for me. I must also agree that the original PSU seems to be too lightweight.
Next for me the issue with the heater bed 
Peet
Sorry for my English 
I have the same problem. This error “Brown Out Reset” repeats to me always when I try print objects more than 6.5 cm tall. At this height the printer always stops and PSU is extremely hot. My power supply voltage is 15.40V. When bed and extruder heaters is on voltages is 14.93V.
But I dont know voltage duering that error hapens.
Should I sent my PSU to Belgium?
Can I buy the new one better PSU in my local Lithuanian market to avoid waiting?
What PSU parameters would be better get? More amps? More watts?
Currently using Velleman K8200 adapter: psk8200 100W max. 6.67A max.
This image displays temperature history when “Brown Out Reset” error happens. Visible sudden temperature brief disappearance. What does it mean?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwX170DRLNP5bk5BTnVWMHlWZk0/view
The brownout happens because you power supply shuts down due to overheating.
You can either get yourself a more powerful supply or put a second supply on the heatbed,
to releave some stress from the main 15V supply.
I run my k8200 with the stock supply powering the controller. hotend and motors and a 24V supply for the heatbed.
Works fine, as the load for the stock supply now keeps within it’s specs.
Thank you ichbinsnur for the answer.
It seems that you’re right.
I put my PSU on a large plastic bowl with ice.
And now my printer is able to print parts 20 cm
in height:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZm4_x9Edd4
But I would like to do like you suggested: put a
second supply on the heatbed.
Could you provide me step-by-step instruction how to do it?
[quote=“vilius”]Thank you ichbinsnur for the answer.
It seems that you’re right.
I put my PSU on a large plastic bowl with ice.
And now my printer is able to print parts 20 cm
in height:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZm4_x9Edd4
But I would like to do like you suggested: put a
second supply on the heatbed.
Could you provide me step-by-step instruction how to do it?[/quote]
You’ll need a power-expander of some sort. Some folks use relays, others MOSFETS. I bought one off of reprap and have been using it for 3 months: reprap.me/power-expander.html
1.) Desolder 15VDC leads from bed
2.) Connect 15VDC to logic input at the top of the power expander
3.) Connect 24VDC to “In” or power expander
4.) Run 24VDC line from “Out” of power expander and solder to bed terminals
You’ll have to up the guage of the wires from 24VDC out to the bed to handle the additional current. The old ribbon 3-lead per terminal will get uncomfortably warm if you try to use those. I wound up going with 16GA in twisted pair, and running them through a cable chain since I was tearing things apart anyway: thingiverse.com/make:175011
It’s not a hard job to do if you use the canned MOSFET power expander.
I haven’t had anymore brown-out resets, and my bed can reach 50 deg C in about 3 minutes. I’ve taken it as high as 100 without issue (but I forgot to time it).
Hope this helps!